Listen closely. The story I’m about to tell you is about the Grote Kerk also known as the Sint-Bavokerk in Haarlem not Amsterdam. This magnificent church has witnessed centuries of history. Its towering presence has dominated the Haarlem skyline for generations.
The Sint-Bavokerk is more than just a building. It is a living testament to Haarlem’s rich history. It stands as a symbol of faith perseverance and resilience. Its origins date back to at least 1307. A wooden structure once occupied this very spot. It unfortunately burned down in the 14th century. The current Gothic structure was built later. It became the main church of Haarlem after renovations made it significantly larger than the Janskerk.
The Sint-Bavokerk was elevated to chapter church status in 1479. It wasn’t until 1559 that it officially became a cathedral. However this title was short-lived. During the Haarlemse Noon in 1578 the church was confiscated and converted to Protestantism. A curious detail is a painting in the Catholic Cathedral of St Bavo. It depicts St Bavo saving Haarlem from the Kennemers. This painting was created after Catholics were banned from their church. It’s believed to be a commemorative piece representing the defense of the Church and the Catholic faith.
The Sint-Bavokerk has faced several challenges throughout its existence. A lightning strike in 1801 caused a devastating fire. The tower was damaged. However a courageous guard Martijn Hendrik Kretschman prevented another disaster in 1839. He stopped Jan Drost from setting fire to the organ and piano. Sadly Drost later committed suicide.
The interior of the Sint-Bavokerk boasts a remarkable organ. The Christiaan Müller organ is one of the most historically significant organs worldwide. Built between 1735 and 1738 it was the largest organ in the world. Famous musicians like Mendelssohn Handel and a young Mozart played this very instrument. The organ has undergone modifications over the years. Today it remains a stunning centerpiece within the church.
The Sint-Bavokerk even served as a burial ground. Until 1831 prominent Haarlemmers were interred within its walls. Illustrious families had their shields displayed on diamond-shaped plaques. Notable figures like Frans Hals and Pieter Teyler van der Hulst were buried here. The rotting remains under the floor led to the colorful idiom “stinking rich”.
The bells of Sint-Bavokerk hold their own story. The largest the Bourdon bell Roeland from 1503 strikes the hour. The carillon features bells from François and Pieter Hemony and later additions from Eijsbouts. Local legend ties two bells to the Wapenvermeerdering the legend of the Haarlem shield. The bells are said to have been taken from Damiette during the Fifth Crusade. But in reality they were a gift in 1562. They were recast in 1732 and continue to chime every evening.
The Sint-Bavokerk’s story is a tapestry woven with faith history and resilience. It stands as a powerful reminder of the enduring spirit of Haarlem. Its grandeur evokes a sense of awe. Its history resonates through time. Take a moment to appreciate this architectural marvel.