Across the Brouwersgracht stands the Bullebak a double bascule bridge. It connects the Marnixstraat and the Korte Marnixstraat near the Marnixkade. This isn’t just any bridge though. The Bullebak has a story a legend whispered through generations.
The Bullebak’s name itself is intriguing. A ‘bullebak’ in Dutch slang means a grumpy or frightening person. But in Amsterdam the name also refers to a mythical water spirit. Legend says this ghost lurked between bridge 149 and a former vault. This vault connected the Lijnbaansgracht with the Singelgracht. The mischievous Bullebak supposedly lured unsuspecting passersby especially children into the canal.
This bridge has stood in this spot since at least the early 17th century. Maps from 1625 and 1649 show a bridge here. It was originally a small bridge leading to an early version of the Haarlemmerpoort. The current bridge however dates from around 1889. It replaced a former sluice. Horse-drawn trams traversed the Bullebak from 1892. Then in 1900 the bridge was adapted for Amsterdam’s first electric tram line the future line 10. The bridge deck had to be strengthened for the heavier electric vehicles. Large overhead portal structures appeared on the bridgeheads. These became unnecessary in 1902 when trolley poles were replaced by bow collectors and they were removed.
The Bullebak underwent further renovations in 1908 and 1920. In 1940 the municipality attempted to name all its bridges. They discovered then that Amsterdam had two Bullebak sluices. One was by the Brouwersgracht the other by the Bloemgracht. Debate ensued over which truly deserved the name. Old maps couldn’t settle the matter. The bridge over the Brouwersgracht was officially called the Kleine Brouwers Schutsluis but was known as the Bullebakssluis. Eventually it became simply the Bullebak bridge number 149.
Major maintenance was undertaken in 1956 and 1985. In 1977 the municipality planned to replace it. However residents of around 25 houseboats protested. Neighbors hung posters in their windows with the slogan “Keep our Bullebak open”. A major restoration costing 4.5 million guilders followed in 1985. Despite this little original material remained. In 1995 it was designated a municipal monument.
By 2019 the Bullebak was in such bad shape that action was needed. Cracks appeared in the bridge deck and substructure. The wooden pile foundation was damaged by bacteria and fungi a problem affecting many Amsterdam bridges. Heavy traffic including buses was banned from March 27 2019. Only one tram could cross at a time and only at walking speed. Tram line 3 and bus lines 18 and 21 used the bridge in 2020.
Between August 2020 and June 2023 the Bullebak was completely rebuilt. The historic appearance was preserved. The railings and natural stone elements were restored. The closing gates were replaced by boom barriers. The steel bridge cellars were demolished and replaced by concrete cellars. The pile foundations were replaced by steel foundation piles screwed into the ground. The abutments were also restored.
Traffic was diverted. A temporary bridge nicknamed “het Bullebakje” was created for pedestrians and cyclists. The bridge sections were hoisted into place in August September 2022. A section of the bridge reopened in March 2023 for pedestrians cyclists and emergency services. The Bullebakje closed on the same day. A temporary closure in June followed when a tram track was damaged during bridge opening. From August 29 2023 the bridge was again fully open. Near the Bullebak stands a statue of the water spirit created by Martie van der Loo. The Bullebak stands as a testament to Amsterdam’s history its legends and its resilience.