Isn’t it amazing how bridges can tell stories? We are standing at the Hagebrug in Amsterdam. It is more than just a way to cross water. It connects us to centuries of history.
Amsterdam’s Begijnhof is nearby. This tranquil courtyard offers a glimpse into the lives of the Beguines. These were unmarried religious women. They lived in a close community. They took vows of chastity.
The Begijnhof is one of Amsterdam’s oldest hofjes. These almshouses provided modest homes. The Begijnhof dates back to the Middle Ages. It lies within the Singel. This is Amsterdam’s innermost canal. The Begijnhof is at medieval street level. That is about a meter below the rest of the old city center.
Originally, canals completely surrounded the Begijnhof. The only entrance was at the Begijnensteeg. This alley had a bridge. That bridge crossed the Begijnensloot. The Spui entrance dates back to the 19th century.
The Begijnhof differs from other Amsterdam courts. Private persons did not found this old people’s home. It resembled a convent. But the Beguines enjoyed more freedom than nuns. They could leave the court to marry.
The houses are tall. They are characteristically Amsterdam-style townhouses. The houses here have addresses bearing the court’s name. Unlike most courts, the houses do not form rows. There are 47 town houses. Each has its individual aspect. Most have facades from the 17th and 18th centuries. But the buildings themselves are older. Eighteen still possess a Gothic wooden framework.
The Begijnesloot gate dates from 1574. It has a gable stone. It depicts Saint Ursula. She is the patron saint of the Amsterdam beguines. The Spui gate dates from about 1725. It was replaced in the 19th century. The Begijnhof has many gable stones. Many show a strong Roman Catholic character.
After the Protestant takeover of 1578, the Begijnhof was the only Roman Catholic institution allowed to remain. The houses were the beguines’ private property. The Chapel was closed. It lay empty for about 30 years. Then it was ceded to the English Presbyterians. Since then, it has been called the “English Church.”
In 1671, Philip Vingboons converted two dwellings into a secret church for Catholics. It was named after the patron saints of the Begijnhof. This church was kept secret. It could not be recognized as a church from the outside.
The most famous beguine was Sister Cornelia Arens. She died in 1654. She chose to be buried in the gutter of the court. Legend says her coffin was found in the gutter the next day. This happened two more times. Finally, she was laid to rest in the gutter.
The last beguine was Sister Antonia. She died in 1971. She was buried in the Sisters’ Grave.
Until its renovation in 1979, the court had 140 dwellings. Some were single rooms. Others had two rooms. The renovations enlarged the houses. Since then, the number of female inhabitants has been 105.
As you cross the Hagebrug, remember the stories. Remember the Beguines. Remember their lives of faith and community. The Hagebrug is a link. It connects us to their enduring legacy.