Grote of St. Bavokerk

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“Stinking rich” is a phrase that echoes through these hallowed halls. This saying has a surprising origin linked to the Grote of St. Bavokerk. Welcome to the Grote of St. Bavokerk in Haarlem. It is a gothic-style church in the heart of the Grote Markt. This “Big Church” boasts a rich history and impressive architecture.

Originally Catholic, it became a Protestant church following the Reformation. Its towering spire reaches 246 feet. It surpasses all other buildings in the city.

The Grote of St. Bavokerk is renowned for its Mülller organ. Christian Müller built it in 1738. It was the largest organ worldwide at that time. Its fame spread throughout Europe. Composers like Handel and Mozart traveled here to play it. Mozart was only 10 years old. The organ features 25 life-size sculptures.

But there’s more to this church than just its organ. The Grote of St. Bavokerk holds a treasure trove of old artwork. These works depict the church’s role in medieval politics. They also show Haarlem’s guilds and the beer industry’s rise.

Until 1831, the wealthy were buried inside the Grote of St. Bavokerk. Pieter Teyler van der Hulst rests here. However, the smell of decaying corpses became a problem. This led to the expression “stinking rich”. The unpleasant odor permeated the floor.

Legend says the church’s upper bells came from Damiette. Haarlem knights seized them during the 5th Crusade. Since 1561, these bells ring every evening. They commemorate the conquest of Damiette in 1219. However, historical records indicate that Johannes Dircks, a bell-maker from Aalst, gifted them to Nicolaas van Nieuwland, the bishop of Haarlem. Regardless of their origin, the bells signaled the closing of the city gates.

In 1911, Anthony Fokker’s Spin 3 airplane flew around the Grote of St. Bavokerk. This happened during Queen’s Day. The church’s history is a blend of art, music, and even aviation feats.

Brink en van Keulen created chandeliers for the Grote of St. Bavokerk. They adapted the lighting to enhance different atmospheres. This highlights the church’s history and ornaments.

The Grote of St. Bavokerk is more than a building. It is a repository of Haarlem’s history. Its walls have witnessed religious shifts. They also hold musical innovation and even morbid realities. As you leave, remember the stories. Recall the sounds of the organ and bells. Reflect on the art within these walls.

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