“Beguines’ Bridge: sounds like a fairytale doesn’t it?” Here we are at the Begijnebrug. It is a bridge with a story etched in its very stones. This isn’t just any bridge. It’s a crossing point steeped in Amsterdam’s rich history.
The Begijnebrug whispers tales of Amsterdam’s oldest hofjes. A hofje is a courtyard surrounded by historic buildings. These were mostly private dwellings. The Begijnhof was originally a béguinage. Beguines were women who lived in religious communities. They cared for the sick. They weren’t nuns. They didn’t live in convents. They had no founders. They didn’t make lifelong vows. These unmarried women made a vow of chastity. They promised obedience to the parish priest. They could leave the Beguinage to get married.
The Begijnhof is special. It’s Amsterdam’s only inner court founded in the Middle Ages. It lies within the Singel. That’s Amsterdam’s innermost canal. The Begijnhof is below the rest of the old city center. It is about a meter lower.
It’s not clear exactly when the Begijnhof was founded. Beguines lived in a house back in 1346. A courtyard was first mentioned in 1389. This likely happened after the Amsterdam Eucharistic Miracle of 1345. That event raised the city’s religious status.
Originally water encircled the Begijnhof. This included the Nieuwezijds Voorburgwal, the Spui, and the Begijnensloot. The Begijnensteeg held the sole entrance. That’s the Beguines’ Alley. It had a bridge across the Begijnensloot. The Spui entrance only dates back to the 19th century.
The Begijnhof differs from Amsterdam patricians’ courts. Private persons didn’t found this old people’s home. It resembled a convent. But the beguines had more freedom than nuns. They could leave the court anytime to marry.
Tall Amsterdam houses surround the court. These houses emphasize the court’s private character. The houses here have addresses bearing the court’s name. Unlike most courts, the houses don’t form rows. There are 47 town houses. Each has its own aspect. Most have facades from the 17th and 18th centuries. But the buildings are usually older. Eighteen still possess a Gothic wooden framework.
The old Begijnesloot gate dates from 1574. It has a gable stone depicting Saint Ursula. She is the patron saint of the Amsterdam beguines. The Spui gate is from about 1725. A gatehouse replaced it in the 19th century. The Begijnhof has many gable stones. Many show a strong Roman Catholic character.
After the Protestant takeover of 1578, the Begijnhof was the only Roman Catholic institution allowed to remain. The houses were the beguines’ private property. But the Chapel closed. It lay empty for about 30 years. Then it went to the English Presbyterians. It has since been called the “English Church”.
In 1671, Philip Vingboons converted two dwellings into a church for Catholics. This was the Church of the Saints John and Ursula. It was named after the Begijnhof’s patron saints. This church was kept secret. The city government demanded this. It couldn’t be recognized as a church from the outside.
The Begijnebrug stands as a silent witness. It saw religious strife. It saw the daily lives of the beguines. It saw Amsterdam change around it. Take a moment to appreciate the history beneath your feet. The Begijnebrug is more than just a crossing. It’s a journey through time.