Concrete dreams. That’s what the Bijlmer was supposed to be. A modernist utopia rising from the Dutch polder.
The Bijlmer, or Bijlmermeer, is a neighborhood in Amsterdam-Zuidoost. Other neighborhoods include Gaasperdam, Bullewijk, Venserpolder and Driemond. Once a lake, the Bijlmermeer was drained in the 17th century for farmland. Grain imports were expensive. Draining the lake increased domestic grain production.
Fast forward to the 1960s. Architects, led by Siegfried Nassuth, envisioned a new kind of urban living. High-rise buildings arranged in a hexagonal grid. Open spaces below. Elevated roads above. The Bijlmer aimed to offer residents views, clean air and sunlight. It was meant to attract a suburban population.
Apartments boasted unique features. Tubular walkways connected flats and garages. Green spaces separated the blocks. Each flat had a designated garage space. The Bijlmer separated traffic onto two levels. Cars drove on elevated decks. Pedestrians and cyclists used lower avenues. This enhanced traffic safety. Recent changes have brought roads back to a single plane.
The 1980s brought changes. Suriname gained independence. Many citizens immigrated to the Netherlands. Housing was scarce. The Bijlmer’s modernist design created problems. There was a lack of openness. Many middle-class residents moved out. The Bijlmer became impoverished. Crime rates rose.
October 4, 1992. Tragedy struck. El Al Flight 1862 crashed into two apartment buildings. Forty-three people died. The Bijlmerramp, the Bijlmer disaster, became the worst accident in Dutch aviation history.
Renovation came in the 21st century. The Amsterdam Bijlmer ArenA station opened in 2007. Metro lines connected the Bijlmer to the city center. Roads were constructed. Metro Line 53 extended. Despite these improvements, employment remained low.
Urban renewal projects improved quality of life. A mosque opened in the 1990s. Many high-rises were renovated or torn down. Low-rise housing was built to attract wealthier residents. Crime decreased. The socio-economic composition became more balanced. The area maintained its ethnic mix. The Bijlmer has been popular with students for affordability.
Today, the Bijlmer houses nearly 50000 people. They represent over 150 nationalities. The Bijlmer struggled to attract middle-class families. After Suriname’s independence in 1975, many Surinamese people migrated to the Netherlands. The government housed many in the Bijlmer.
The Bijlmer once had a high crime rate. It has decreased dramatically in recent years. Registered complaints to the police fell from 20000 in 1995 to 8000 in 2005.
The Johan Cruyff Arena hosts football matches and concerts. The Pathé ArenA multiplex cinema boasts 14 screens. The Heineken Music Hall hosts music and theatre. These venues lie west of the Bijlmer, along the ArenA Boulevard. The Bijlmer boasts Amsterdam’s biggest shopping center, the Amsterdamse Poort.
The Anton de Kom plein houses a cultural center and administrative offices. Since 2012, the area has been marketed as ArenaPoort. The GETZ Entertainment Centre is planned for the ArenA Boulevard. The Kwaku Summer Festival celebrates Surinamese, Antillean and African culture.
De Boom Die Alles Zag, The Tree That Saw Everything, survived the El Al Flight 1862 crash. It stands as a monument.
Randomly placed art sparks debate. Arico Caravan placed a statue of Martin Luther King Jr. near a statue of Anton de Kom. The original statue faced criticism. Local institutions have expressed interest in addressing the matter.
The Bijlmer has been home to many notable people. Footballers Ryan Babel and Mitchell Donald. Kickboxers Remy Bonjasky and Rob Kaman. Academic Gloria Wekker.
The Bijlmer stands as a testament to the ever-evolving nature of urban planning. It’s a place where concrete dreams meet multicultural realities.