Have you ever noticed the somewhat muted grandeur of the Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God, known in Czech as Zesnutí Pře svaté Bohorodice? It stands out against the Olšany Cemetery, a stark counterpoint to the somber stone tombs that surround it. Unlike other cemeteries, dominated by Catholic imagery, this cemetery was specifically for the Orthodox community.
The Church of the Dormition was built in the 1920s, a testament to the thriving Russian Orthodox culture in Prague. This was a turbulent time for the Orthodox community in Prague – the Russian revolution had driven a wave of refugees seeking solace across Europe.
The construction of the church on Olšany was a major undertaking. The project was led by architect Vladimír Brandt, who drew inspiration from ancient Russian architecture. Its striking bell tower and iconic cupola, reminiscent of Novgorod and Pskov, stand as a beacon of faith in the midst of the cemetery.
Inside, the church is adorned with intricate frescoes and mosaics. A magnificent mosaic of the Dormition of the Mother of God, inspired by a miraculous icon, dominates the entrance. The frescoes, created during the Second World War, depict key moments from the life of Christ and the Virgin Mary. The details are exquisite. They capture the reverence and profound spirituality that imbued the beliefs of the community that built this church.
But there’s another layer to this church’s story. Hidden beneath it, a crypt holds a significant historical repository – the final resting place of Karel Kramář, the first prime minister of Czechoslovakia. He rests here alongside his wife, Naděžda, who was a staunch supporter of the Russian Orthodox Church.
The Church of the Dormition is more than just a religious building. It’s a powerful symbol of the resilience of faith in the face of challenging times. It stands as a reminder of the shared history of Czech and Russian cultures and a testament to the enduring power of belief. You’ll see what I mean as we walk past it. We’ll be back at the end of the tour.