Yat Lup Mei

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“Wax” is not what the Chinese word “lup” means in Yat Lup Mei. It refers to an ancient deity. People prayed to this deity during the 12th lunar month during the Xia dynasty about 2000 years ago. The 12th lunar month is called “la yue”. Meat cured or preserved during this month is hence called “lup mei”. The word “la” has nothing to do with wax. Some think the meat was preserved using wax.

Yat Lup Mei is also known as Chinese cured meat. It is a common recipe during Chinese New Year. Seeing cured meats sold in the supermarket means Chinese New Year is near. Chinese cured meat can be pork, fish, duck, or chicken. The more common type is Chinese sausages. Cured pork belly, duck, and ham are also sold during Chinese New Year.

Not all Yat Lup Mei is equal. Some are tasty but some do not suit my taste buds. Hunan-style cured meat is most aromatic. In Singapore, there are not many choices. It is dominated by a few companies. The kind I have tasted today is different from the type I ate in China.

During the olden days, meat was not a common item. Families in villages slaughtered 1-2 pigs before Chinese New Year. That was the time to celebrate hard work. It was called “sha nian zhu”. It was an important event. After slaughtering, pigs were distributed to relatives. Some were used in the new year. Most of the meat would not be finished. Huge quantities were cured. This cured meat would provide protein for the coming year.

The traditional method of curing meat is simple. Meat was rubbed with salt, herbs, and spices. The meat was hung near the roof. It was indirectly smoked by the stove. It can be eaten after a few months. The meat can keep for years if properly cured.

Eating Yat Lup Mei is a Cantonese style. In Malaysia, only chicken and Chinese sausages were used. This is known as claypot chicken rice. The recipe is similar including the seasonings. Another version uses glutinous rice. This glutinous rice version is sold in restaurants. It tastes different. It tastes more like Hokkien baby full moon glutinous rice.

Lap Mei Fan is a gorgeous Cantonese dish. It’s perfect for the Chinese New Year. It is rice piled with traditional Chinese preserved meats. These meats are also known as Lap Mei. It’s all cooked in a clay pot. The oils from the preserved meats infuse the rice. The bottom crust of the rice is cooked until golden and crunchy. This is a favorite dish for cold days. It’s a great all-in-one dinner.

“Lap mei” is Chinese preserved meats plus “fan” or rice. A perfectly cooked bowl of excellent rice is a thing of beauty. You will have to find a source of Chinese preserved meats. There are specialty stores that sell these. You can also find it at your local wet market in Hong Kong. The best bet is the specialty stores. They will have the freshest and the best Yat Lup Mei.

There are four kinds of lap mei. Chinese Preserved Pork Belly Lap Yuk is pork belly marinated and air-dried. Lap Cheong are the red Chinese sausages. They are made from pork and pork fat marinated and smoked. Yun Cheong are Chinese liver sausages. They are made from duck and pork liver marinated and smoked. The last is Chinese Preserved Duck Leg. It is duck leg salted and marinated in rice wine and air-dried.

The real trick to this dish is the cooking method. Cook it in a clay pot. It won’t work in other pots. Chinese clay pots are super inexpensive. Make sure to get the clay pots that have a wire frame. Never put a clay pot on a very hot fire. Follow the cooking with your nose. When the rice smells roasty but not burnt, the pot is ready. The best clay pot rice is cooked over charcoal fire. Cooking over charcoal improves the taste.

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