Yamatocho

Tucked away in the residential heart of Nakano, Tokyo, lies Yamatocho. It’s more than just a neighborhood. Yamatocho whispers stories of history, resilience, and the enduring spirit of community. Let’s explore two distinct landmarks in Yamatocho that capture this essence: Rengeji Temple and the former site of Ohako restaurant. First, Rengeji Temple stands as a testament to the passage of time in Yamatocho. Established in 1658, this Nichiren sect temple has witnessed the transformation of Yamatocho through the Edo period to the modern day. The temple’s main hall, relocated to Yamatocho between 1911 and the early Taisho period, retains its original Edo-era interior. The current head priest’s commitment to sustainability resonates with the temple’s history. He replants a flowering tree for every tree cut down for temple repairs, a tangible link between Yamatocho’s past and future. The temple’s annual Flower Festival, held every first Sunday of April, brings the community together. This tradition, started 75 years ago to bring joy to children after the war, continues to offer sweets and educational materials to young visitors. The presence of haniwa figures, donated by a parishioner, adds a unique charm to Rengeji Temple, solidifying its place in Yamatocho’s cultural landscape. Now, let’s shift our focus to a culinary gem that once graced Yamatocho. Ohako, a beloved Chinese restaurant, operated for over 60 years. Located a short walk from Nogata Station, it was a local institution. The restaurant’s history is intertwined with the development of Yamatocho itself. Originally established in 1963 on a road parallel to Kannana Dori, Ohako even served meals to the workers constructing Kannana Dori for the 1964 Tokyo Olympics. After the road’s completion, Ohako moved to its final location in Yamatocho, becoming a familiar landmark. Ohako’s culinary legacy stemmed from the teachings of the renowned Koyo restaurant in Arai Yakushi. The handmade noodles and soup, prepared with techniques passed down from Koyo, were a testament to Ohako’s dedication to quality. Though Ohako is no longer in operation, its memory remains a flavorful part of Yamatocho’s story. Yamatocho, home to Rengeji Temple and the former site of Ohako, encapsulates the dynamic spirit of Tokyo. It is a place where history intertwines with modernity, and where the echoes of community traditions resonate through the years.