Here, messengers of deities await. This is Takao-san Yakuo-in Yuki-ji, or more simply, Yakuo-in. Founded in 744 by Emperor Shomu, Yakuo-in became a pivotal Buddhist center in eastern Japan. Gyoki, closely linked to the Great Buddha at Todai-ji Temple in Nara, was its charismatic founder.
Centuries later, in the late 14th century, Shungen Daitoku restored Yakuo-in. He was a priest from Mount Daigo in Kyoto. Mount Daigo is a sacred site of Shingon esoteric Buddhism. Shungen Daitoku performed a goma fire ritual, burning 8,000 goma sticks. He received a vision of Izuna Daigongen and enshrined the deity. Shungen Daitoku is considered the second founder. Through him, Yakuo-in became connected to Shingon esoteric Buddhism. Mount Takao flourished as a Shugendo center. Shugendo means mountain asceticism.
During the civil war period from the late 15th to the late 16th century, powerful warrior lords revered Izuna Daigongen as a protector. These lords included Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin. The Hojo family, rulers of the Kanto region, were strong devotees. They placed Mount Takao under special protection. The mountain held strategic importance. In the Edo period from 1603 to 1867, the ruling Tokugawa family patronized Yakuo-in which then expanded. Today, Yakuo-in is one of three head temples of the Shingon-shu Chisan-ha Sect. The others are Narita-san Shinsho-ji and Kawasaki Daishi Heiken-ji.
Shungen Daitoku enshrined Izuna Daigongen as the principal image at Yakuo-in. Izuna Daigongen is a form of Fudo Myo-o who brings people to salvation. The angry-faced Fudo Myo-o is an avatar of the Dainichi Nyorai, the Buddha of Cosmic Life. The Izuna cult originated on Mount Izuna in Nagano Prefecture during the Heian period from 794 to 1185. It eventually spread to shrines throughout Japan.
Izuna Daigongen combines five deities. These are Fudo Myo-o, Karuraten or Garuda which is a divine bird, Dakiniten who is a demon that feeds on human hearts, Kangiten a fertility deity with the head of an elephant, and Benzaiten the deity of water, music, and victory in battle. Izuna Daigongen protects devotees. It brings them happiness and security.
Tengu, long-nosed demon-like beings, dwell on sacred mountains. They act as messengers of deities and buddhas. They punish evildoers and protect the good. Tengu often hold an uchiwa, a Japanese fan. This sweeps away misfortune and brings good fortune. Mount Takao is closely associated with devotion to tengu.
Two figures stand before the Izuna Gongen-do Hall. They exemplify the two types of tengu. The smaller tengu has a beak of a crow. The larger one has a big nose. The small tengu is undergoing religious training. The large tengu is like an experienced yamabushi. A yamabushi is someone who has attained spiritual power through religious training at Mount Takao.
Close by, you can see the Yakuo-in Izunagongen-do. This vermillion building has very colorful details. Its construction occurred around 1805. It resulted from joining Haiden & Heiden and Honden. These were two independent buildings built in the early 18th century, connected by the roof during repairs. The building is classified as a Tangible Cultural Property of Tokyo. This is because of its architecture, representative of the Edo period.
A few steps down lies Yakuo-in Daishi-do, a more modest building. Small Buddha sculptures surround it. Believers walk along it, praying to each one. They touch their heads or step on a circle on the ground.
The construction date of this building is unknown. Its architectural style and materials match the mid-Edo period. It is also classified as a Tangible Cultural Property of Tokyo.
Yakuo-in welcomes guests interested in shugendo. Guidance is offered to first-timers. You can also try shojin ryori, Buddhist vegetarian cuisine upon reservation. There is a sign near the entrance of the temple that says “sessho kindan” or “no killing”.
As you explore Yakuo-in, remember its history. From Emperor Shomu’s vision to the tengu legends, Yakuo-in remains a place of deep spiritual significance.