Gaudí found a kindred spirit in Tokyo. Here stands Waseda El Dorado, also known as Rhythms of Vision. It is an architectural marvel that defies the city’s boxy, nondescript buildings. Completed in August 1983, Waseda El Dorado is near Waseda University in Shinjuku.
Von Jour Caux, a Japanese architect, designed Waseda El Dorado. He calls himself a master architect and a proficient artisan. The building blends Art Nouveau with Japanese culture. Von Jour Caux drew inspiration from Antoni Gaudí, celebrating craftsmanship over mere functionality.
Consider the lily-pad-shaped wrought-iron balconies. Imagine ceramic figures adorned with tattoo designs. Visualize green-gold wallpaper imprinted with Edo-style woodblocks. Iridescent tiles reflect an inlaid mother-of-pearl art.
Inside Waseda El Dorado, a Buddhist stave’s giant hand points down from a stained-glass ceiling. The wrought-iron banister zigzags past Art Deco windows. Von Jour Caux aimed to create a theatrical experience within the building. He wanted to shake visitors’ deepest memories and invite them into an illusory story.
Von Jour Caux witnessed Tokyo’s sterile rebuilding after World War II. He sought umarekawari, a rebirth of lost traditions. He wanted to revive the rich culture that thrived even with scarce resources.
Von Jour Caux’s work reflects dreams and deeper levels of consciousness. Hinduism and esoteric Buddhism inspired him. In 1974, he changed his name. “Von” means Brahma. “Jour” means cause for joy. “Caux” means rope. The rope dangles between worlds, a shamanistic symbol.
Born in Asakusa in 1934, Von grew up in Kagurazaka’s geisha district. He immersed himself in Edo culture, with temples and shrines as his playgrounds. The bombings of 1945 showed him the fragility of reality.
He studied architecture and even sought out Mies van der Rohe in Chicago. However, he found his calling in a more idiosyncratic approach. He established Von Architects and designed various buildings.
Von says Tokyo’s modern buildings are like fake restaurant food. They are clean, uniformly shaped, and flavorless. He aimed to create living spaces that positively affect residents’ minds. The upper floors of Waseda El Dorado serve as rental apartments. This aligns with his architectural philosophy.
Financing such extravagance was challenging. Von’s projects often faced tight budgets. He combined imported materials like terracotta roof tiles with Japanese craftsmanship. His team adapted industrial methods to keep costs down.
Von’s team poured concrete into molds to mimic sculpted stonework. They worked tirelessly for little pay to realize their vision. As you pass Waseda El Dorado, remember the dedication and artistry that shaped this unique building. It stands as a testament to imagination. It is a rejection of uniformity. Waseda El Dorado is a four-minute walk from Waseda Station. It faces Sodai-dori Street.