“Once upon a time,” a director of the New Zealand Company mused. His Essex home was the namesake for Thorndon. Now, look around. We are standing in Thorndon. It’s a suburb steeped in history and it’s also the oldest suburb in New Zealand.
Thorndon lies at the northern end of Wellington’s central business district. The green town belt on Te Ahumairangi Hill flanks it to the west. Port facilities of Wellington Harbour are to the east.
In 1824, Ngāti Mutunga from Taranaki established Pipitea Pā. It was a fortified village on the Haukawakawa flats. Later, Ngāti Mutunga left and Te Āti Awa occupied the pā. After European settlement, the pā declined. However, some people remained there into the 20th century.
European settlers built their houses alongside the Māori settlement of Pipitea in 1840. The New Zealand Company named all the flats Thorndon. This was after the estate of W H F Petre, one of their directors. S C Brees described it in 1848 as “the court end of town”.
Being one of New Zealand’s oldest residential suburbs, Thorndon has a diverse architectural history. Settlers divided the land into one-acre sections in the 1840s. This is still evident today. Because of its steep landscape, parts of Thorndon have unique architecture. Social divisions of the 19th century are clear. Large houses were built on flat land in the north. Workers’ houses were built on the sloped landscape to the south.
At the turn of the century, there was a surge in prosperity. Leading architects designed many substantial homes. William Clayton designed many significant buildings in Wellington. He is best known for Parliament buildings and Government House. He also constructed the first concrete building in the country. It was a house on Hobson St, now part of Queen Margaret College.
Ernst Plischke introduced modernism into Thorndon architecture after World War II. He worked on housing block designs for the government.
In the 1960s, the Wellington Urban Motorway cut through Thorndon. This destroyed about 400 houses. This led to greater awareness of Thorndon’s heritage. In the 1970s, the Thorndon Society and Thorndon Trust formed. They aimed to preserve and protect the area’s historic buildings.
Wellington City Council ensures new buildings in Thorndon adhere to a code. This protects its special character. The majority of buildings are over 90 years old. The design guide provides criteria for prospective buildings. It ensures all new buildings maintain Thorndon’s character.
Thorndon combines the home of government and residential accommodation. The buildings of the New Zealand Parliament are located here. National institutions are also located in Thorndon. These include the Appeal and High Courts, the National Library, and Archives New Zealand.
Thorndon is home to two cathedrals. St Paul’s Cathedral was built between 1937 and 1998. It replaced Old St Paul’s. The Roman Catholic Sacred Heart Cathedral opened in 1901. It replaced the destroyed St Mary’s Cathedral. The Thistle Inn is one of New Zealand’s oldest pubs.
Today, Thorndon stands as a testament to Wellington’s rich history. It is a vibrant mix of residential charm and governmental power. As you wander its streets, imagine the stories etched into every building. Feel the echoes of settlers, politicians, and everyday people. They shaped this remarkable suburb.