Tengenji Temple

Nestled in the heart of Tokyo’s Yanaka district, stands the venerable Tennoji Temple. It’s a place where whispers of history mingle with the gentle rustling of cherry blossom trees. Tennoji Temple isn’t just any temple. It’s the oldest in Yanaka, its roots reaching back to 1274. Originally called Choyosankannoji-sonjuuin, it was built to house a Buddha statue crafted by the sage Nichiren. Can you picture the scene, centuries ago, as this sacred space first took shape? Tennoji Temple has seen its share of transformations. In the late 17th century, it was temporarily shuttered due to accusations of heresy. Yet, like a phoenix from the ashes, it reopened in 1699 as a branch of the grand Kan’eiji Temple in Ueno. This rebirth marked its embrace of the Tendai sect of Buddhism and its role as the seat of Bishamonten, the revered god of resources and bravery. As you stand before Tennoji Temple today, you’ll see a striking blend of old and new. A modern wall encloses the grounds, framing the simple yet elegant landscaping. The centerpiece, a magnificent bronze Buddha statue known as the “Tennoji Daibutsu,” greets you near the entrance. This statue, cast in 1690 by Ota Kyuemon, miraculously survived the tumultuous civil war of 1868. Tennoji Temple is more than just a visual marvel. It’s a key stop on the Yanaka Seven Gods of Fortune pilgrimage, home to a shrine dedicated to Bishamonten. Interestingly, the sprawling Yanaka Cemetery that surrounds the temple was once part of its grounds. During the Meiji Restoration, the government, in a move to separate Buddhism from Shinto, confiscated the cemetery, transforming it into a public space. The temple’s history holds a fascinating twist: During the Edo Period, Tennoji was one of the few temples authorized to hold lotteries. From 1728 to 1842, it was the sole temple in Tokyo with this privilege, drawing crowds eager to test their luck. Imagine the lively scene, the air thick with anticipation, as fortunes were made and lost. Tragically, a five-storied pagoda that graced the cemetery grounds until 1957 was lost in a fire. Today, only its granite foundations remain, a silent testament to its grandeur. As you leave Tennoji Temple, take a moment to reflect on its journey through time, a symbol of resilience and spiritual devotion in the heart of Tokyo.