“Magical place!” That’s how many describe Tai Wong Wan.
Tai Wong Wan is a large bay. It features white sand beaches. Rugged headlands flank these beaches. Abandoned fields back them. Impressive hills rise beyond.
Tai Wong Wan is on the east coast. It is part of the Sai Kung Peninsula.
Offshore are rocky islets. Beyond them lies the South China Sea. Mirs Bay is also there. Onshore winds create an impressive swell. The sea is relatively unpolluted here. It displays a splendid tropical blue or turquoise color.
Unless arriving by boat or helicopter, a hike is necessary to reach Tai Wong Wan. The main route follows the Maclehose Trail. This trail goes up and over the ridge from Chek Keng. One can walk to Chek Keng from a bus stop at Pak Tam Au. Some opt for a speedboat ride from Wong Shek Pier. Though illegal, it is a fun option. Speedboat drivers remain still as statues.
The walk up to the ridge can be a long pull. This is especially true on a hot day. But rest is possible at the top. Panoramic views reward the effort. Hills and the bay stretch out below. Sharp Peak’s distinctive profile stands to the left. The trail then winds down. It leads to the hamlet of Tai Long. The First Stop cafe is a tempting place for a drink here.
The trail from Tai Long is mostly level. The Maclehose Trail bears right. Many prefer to keep left. This leads to another hamlet, Ham Tin. Ham Tin sits beside a wonderful beach. Simple restaurants open here. They are more reliable on weekends and public holidays. Weekdays can be less certain. The food may be simple. The location is five-star.
Just north of one of these restaurants is a trail. It leads up into trees on a small headland. It is not far to the top. The view from here is glorious. Tai Wan, the best beach in Hong Kong, stretches out. It extends to the foothills of Sharp Peak. Rough grass and bushes lie behind. There isn’t a building in sight. A developer has schemes to change that. Thankfully, these have been rebuffed so far. The Town Planning Board requires special permission for development here.
On a hot day, relaxing on this beach is appealing. Watch the surfers if the surf is up. Swimming can be dangerous. There are no lifeguards. Currents can be treacherous. Swimmers have died here. But if the weather is okay and energy allows, consider serious hiking.
Head south to pass through Sai Wan. This is another village in a neighboring bay. Then, climb into the hills. Follow the Luk Wu Hiking Trail. It passes through a wild landscape. It reminds some of Arctic tundra.
The stream reaching the sea at Sai Wan is a hiking route. Adventurous folk enjoy it. Waterfalls are en route. There is at least one tricky spot. It requires brief rock climbing.
Or try the headland to the north. Peer down cliffs at the tip to the sea below. Follow rough tracks up Sharp Peak. The trails are okay to the peak’s shoulder. Steeper trails follow. Small stones make them easy to skid on. Still, Sharp Peak is a good hill to conquer. It provides a great vantage. Admire Tai Long Wan and more of the Sai Kung Peninsula.
From Sharp Peak, return to the ridge. Then drop down to Chek Keng for a speedboat. Or hike on to Pak Tam Au.
Remember Tai Wong Wan. Remember its beauty and ruggedness. Remember the hikes and the views. This magical place will leave a lasting impression.