Tears well up in Fong Siu-ying’s eyes. She has a strong connection to Stanley Market. Welcome to Stanley Market, a vibrant hub on Hong Kong Island. It is more than just a market. It is a place with a soul.
Stanley Market began as Chek Chu Tsuen. This nearby village has grown into a major tourist attraction. The British named Stanley after Lord Stanley. He was a British Colonial Secretary. The Chinese name is Chek Chu. It was the largest settlement when the British arrived in the 19th century.
In 1841, about 2,000 of the 4,350 residents of Hong Kong Island lived here. Back then, Stanley already had a “very good bazaar”. It mainly served seafarers. Many fishing boats docked at Chek Chu.
For over 30 years, Fong has sold souvenirs here. Her shop, T. Wong Art Gallery, is the oldest in the market. It has been open for more than 40 years. The gallery is a visual feast with wooden Buddhas and singing bowls. Calligraphy brushes and carvings fill the space. Some are original, some are reproductions.
Stanley Market offers a labyrinth of alleyways. You can find Chinese art and antiques. Porcelain and sportswear are available. Export clothing sells at incredible bargain prices. You can soak up the sun. Enjoy the waterfront on Main Street. Have a meal at Murray House.
Stanley Market is a typical old open-air market. It sells Hong Kong souvenirs and clothing. Look for silk garments and traditional Chinese dresses. Toys and ornaments are common. You can find luggage, paintings, and Chinese arts and crafts.
Small Chinese restaurants dot the marketplace. You can find an old dai pai dong too. Enjoy various restaurants along the seafront. Stanley Main Street has many larger restaurants. They offer both Western and Chinese cuisine.
Stanley was once a temporary administrative center. Later, it moved to Central. British and Canadian troops made their last stand at Stanley Fort here. This was during World War II. They surrendered to Japanese forces in December 1941.
The market has faced hard times. Fong says business was bad during SARS in 2003. But it returned to normal quickly. The anti-government protests and the coronavirus pandemic hit hard. Tourism died. “Some days not one person will walk through my door,” Fong said. Many shops have closed.
Even on busy days, you can escape the crowds. Explore away from the main areas. Wander through the old fishing village. It has narrow streets and houses clinging to the slope. Discover more shops and art galleries. Small cafes and restaurants await.
In Stanley, you can visit a temple and a small beach. Find the transplanted Murray House. It was built in 1846 near Central. It is one of Hong Kong’s oldest colonial buildings. It was rebuilt here in 2001 and now holds restaurants and a museum.
Visit the temple to Tin Hau. She is the goddess of the sea. See statues of Tin Hau and other gods. There is an old pirate drum and bell. See a tiger skin darkened by incense smoke.
The skin belonged to a tiger that attacked a villager in 1942. A policeman shot it in Stanley. South China tigers used to enter Hong Kong. This was one of the last in Hong Kong. Now, the subspecies is almost extinct.
From Stanley Market, walk to St Stephen’s Beach. It is small but people swim here. There are barbecue pits and a pier. In late May or June, the Hong Kong International Dragon Boat Championships take place.
To get here, take bus 6 from Exchange Square in Central. It climbs over Hong Kong Island. Enjoy the fine views. To return quickly, take bus 260. It is an express bus.
Stanley Market is more than a shopping destination. It is a living testament to Hong Kong’s past. It shows the resilience of its people.