Forgotten by time, So Lo Pun Shan stands as a silent testament to a bygone era. What whispers do the crumbling walls of So Lo Pun Shan hold?
This is So Lo Pun. It is a village in the northeastern New Territories of Hong Kong. It lies within the Plover Cove Country Park. Today, the village is derelict. It stands uninhabited. Descendants of former inhabitants have emigrated or moved to urbanized areas of Hong Kong.
So Lo Pun is one of Hong Kong’s oldest and most haunted villages. It is also one of the most rural and abandoned. Encircled by a thick forest and mangroves, its name literally translates to “the compass is locked.” Hikers report compasses stop working when they enter the area.
There is evidence that the village was inhabited since 872 AD. But by the 1980s, it was almost completely deserted. Crumbling houses, small temples and decrepit storage houses remain.
Located deep in Plover Cove Country Park, So Lo Pun is only accessible on foot. It is over three-and-a-half hours from the nearest road. Some believe all the villagers died in a boat accident on the way to a wedding banquet many years ago. Others claim the area is haunted. A visitor once had a heart attack after seeing ghosts there.
In reality, So Lo Pun shares a similar story to other villages in Plover Cove. Political and economic upheaval between the 1950s and 70s prompted most inhabitants to claim residency in Britain. Others moved closer to the city.
For much of its history, the village was known as So Nou Pun. This referred to its location in a wide basin. Nestled in a valley with access to the sea, the village is said to be perfect from a Feng Shui perspective.
Landowners continue to protest against government attempts to incorporate the area into the surrounding protected country park. Land-owners are against selling to the government and more environmental protection. It forbids reconstruction. Also, many believe they can sell to private developers for a more lucrative sum.
In an effort to reinforce the land claim, an ex-villager attempted to clear a stretch of encroaching forest in 2008. The powerful rural affairs body Heung Yee Kuk is behind the ex-villagers. It is said to be ready to confront the government should it attempt to fold Plover Cove’s ghost towns into the park.
The village was once home to generations of the Wong family. Recorded history suggests that Wong Wai Hing was an early settler. He was the founding forefather of So Lo Pun village. Other early settlers are Tsu Kim Gong, Sing Lueng Gong, Yuk Chung Gong and Si Yuen Gong. These people lived circa 872 AD.
So Lo Pun is one of the seven Hakka villages of the Hing Chun Yeuk.
According to urban legend, the village is haunted. Hikers have reported that compasses stop working. This led to the village being dubbed “So Lo Pun”. In Chinese, this literally means “the compass is locked”.
Whether the myths are true or not, always put safety first when in the wilderness. Plan well and bring enough food and water. Avoid stepping into the long grasses as you may get attacked by snakes or other wild animals.
For now, So Lo Pun remains a quiet escape from the bustling city. It attracts just a handful of eco-tourists and hikers each weekend. As you stand here, consider the layers of history and mystery that define So Lo Pun. It is a place where the past and present intertwine.