“Si mi?” A funny thing happened on the way to the street name. That’s the local joke about how Smith Street got its name. The British asked the Chinese locals for the street’s name. The locals, not understanding English, replied “Si mi?”, Hokkien for “What?”. The British then recorded the name as “Smith”.
Smith Street lies in the heart of Singapore’s Chinatown. It sits neatly between South Bridge Road and New Bridge Road. Though it is a small street, Smith Street has a big history.
Originally, Smith Street may have been named after J.C. Smith. He offered to help pay for road improvements in 1853. This was to make access easier for the area’s residents. But it is more likely that Smith Street got its name in honour of Sir Cecil Clementi Smith. He was the Governor of the Straits Settlements. He combatted the secret societies.
Smith Street is known as hei yuen kai in Cantonese. This means “theatre street”. The Lai Chun Yuen theatre stood at 36 Smith Street. Built in 1887, it seated 834 people. The theatre was popular with the Cantonese community. Cantonese opera thrived here. Temple Street became known as hei yuen hau kai. This means “theatre backstreet”. Trengganu Street was called hei yuen wang kai, or “side street”. Packed audiences flocked to the theatre in the 1910s and 1920s. Stars like Ma Shi Chan and Hong Xiannu graced its stage.
After World War II, Smith Street transformed. Street hawkers and traders set up shop selling household goods. In 1983, they moved to Kreta Ayer Complex. Smith Street also had a darker side. In 1901, it was a red-light district with at least 25 brothels. Prostitution came under control in 1930. This happened after the Women and Girl’s Protection Ordinance. Job seekers also gathered here looking for work.
In 2001, a 100-metre stretch of Smith Street became Chinatown Food Street. It officially opened on November 13, 2001. This was part of a Chinatown redevelopment. The Singapore Tourist Promotion Board led the project. Hawker kiosks, shophouse restaurants, and street kiosks offered dishes from Chinese dialects. The street closed to traffic in the evening.
Chinatown Food Street closed for renovations on May 1, 2013. It reopened on February 22, 2014. The revamped street has over 20 hawker stalls. Six shophouse restaurants operate under a glass shelter. Special fans keep the atmosphere cool. The entire 100-metre stretch is permanently closed to road traffic.
Today, Chinatown Food Street is a must-visit. It is the best place to eat cheap and tasty local food. You can find a range of flavors from Singapore, China, and Asia.