Behold the Shin-Ohashi Bridge before you. Tokyo is a city of rivers. It has thousands of bridges. They have been rebuilt numerous times over the centuries. The Shin-Ohashi Bridge crosses the Sumida River. It lies between the wards of Chuo and Koto. It may not seem so flashy. However, it is an icon in art history due to its bright yellow pillars.
Originally built in 1693, the construction of Shin-Ohashi was noted by famed poet Matsuo Basho. He included it in a few of his haiku verses. By 1744, it had been damaged by fires, storms, and floods. It was rebuilt at least 20 times. The government then left the local council in charge of its upkeep.
In the 1850s, Utagawa Hiroshige depicted the Shin-Ohashi in his woodblock print. It was titled “Sudden Shower over Shin-Ohashi Bridge and Atake.” It was part of his series “One Hundred Famous Views of Edo.” Thousands of prints were exported to Europe. This masterpiece influenced many would-be Impressionist artists of the Japonisme era.
Vincent Van Gogh was an avid collector of Japanese prints. He painted his own versions of some of them. This included Ohashi-Atake. He experimented with compositions.
Did all of these artists see the same Shin-Ohashi bridge? Probably not. The span is said to have been destroyed and replaced multiple times in the Edo period. So, the bridge that inspired Basho’s poetry was not the one Hiroshige saw. Both are gone now.
The bridge you see today is not the original. A Western-style wooden bridge replaced it in 1885. Then, an iron one with Art Nouveau features came in 1912. It was nicknamed the “life-saving bridge.” It stayed undamaged in the great earthquake of 1923. It provided shelter for the victims.
The current Shin-Ohashi Bridge was completed in 1977. It is located about a hundred meters downriver from the original site. Few recognize it as the art icon that once took the scene by storm. It is a cable-stayed bridge with a simple appearance. Its illuminated colors are yellow and green.
If you know that “Shin-Ohashi” means “new big bridge” in Japanese, you might be wondering which of these bridges was considered the new one. The answer is all of them. The name distinguished them from an older Ohashi bridge at Ryogoku. It stood further north on the Sumida River.
You can reach today’s Shin-Ohashi Bridge from Hamacho or Morishita stations. Look for the pair of tall orange towers in the middle. Today’s bridge is decorated with artwork. This includes metal plaques depicting Hiroshige’s famous image and the Meiji-era bridge.
From the bridge, you can enjoy a powerful night view. See the illuminated Kiyosubashi Bridge and the Shin-Ohashi Apartments. Benches sit in the middle of the bridge. Take your time and enjoy the view. Lights are on from sunset to 11 PM. The 30-minute period from 5:49 PM to 6:09 PM is the twilight time. This is when the night view is most beautiful.
Remember the Shin-Ohashi Bridge. It is more than just a crossing. It’s a passage through time and art.