Far from the bustling city center, lies Sha Tau Kok. It is a place where time seems to slow down. Sha Tau Kok used to be a mystery to many. This town sits on Hong Kong’s northeastern border with Shenzhen. For decades Sha Tau Kok was a restricted area. Non-residents could only visit with a government permit. Since June 2022, this once-closed town has been gradually opening its doors. Visitors are now welcome to unveil its secrets.
With a population of just about 4000 people, Sha Tau Kok offers a unique glimpse into Hong Kong’s past. The native residents are mostly Hakka people and Hoklo. Hoklo are descendants of migrants from Fujian. They were fishermen but have moved to live on land. They still retain many traditions linked to the sea. One example is the Dry Dragon Boat folk dance. It is performed during festivals and celebrations like weddings. During this dance, Hoklo residents don costumes. They parade along the street. They wave their arms in a paddling motion to the sound of drums.
One of the many historic tenement houses lining San Lau Street is the Sha Tau Kok Story House. It is a heritage museum. It is full of artifacts and records. They document the community’s storied past. Charles Lee is the director of Sha Tau Kok Story House. He is also an eco-tour guide. He says San Lau Street used to be bustling. Mainland people from across the border would come here. They came to buy goods they couldn’t find back home. Today Shenzhen has developed. It is a prosperous metropolis. Sha Tau Kok is no longer a destination for sourcing goods.
Lee opened the Sha Tau Kok Story House in 2018. He wanted to preserve the border town’s historic artifacts. He also wanted to preserve stories of its residents. The Story House is in a traditional one-story shophouse. It was built in 1933. It has an original street-level veranda. This is typical of buildings from that era. The exhibits include donated items. They show how people once lived in Sha Tau Kok. There are old books and pamphlets. You can also see original furniture, tools, crockery, and clothing. There is even a traditional seashell window.
Upmarket village houses would have windows made of seashells. The shells were ground down into thin translucent sheets. If you look closely under the light you can still see the patterns made from the shells. Since the government announced plans to further open up Sha Tau Kok, Lee has reorganized the museum’s exhibits. He wants to be ready to receive more visitors. He hopes to expand the Story House to another story of the building. He has also formed an organization. It will further develop the town’s conservation efforts.
Lee loves to stroll along the waterfront. He enjoys the stunning scenery. The 280-metre-long Sha Tau Kok Pier is the longest pier in Hong Kong. When you walk to the end you realize how amazing the views are. You can see the ridges of Plover Cove Country Park on one side. On the other side, you can see the distant urban skyline of Shenzhen. In the evenings you can often see herons resting on the buoys near the pier.
The opening of Sha Tau Kok marks a new chapter. It is a great cultural destination. Descendants of old shop owners will come back. They will reopen those places as story rooms. They will recount the history of their families’ businesses. Young people are also encouraged to set up cafes and creative businesses. This will revitalize the district.