Sam Seng Wine

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A slogan echoes through Hong Kong’s collective memory. It’s about “Sam Seng Antler Pilose Medicinal Wine.” The slogan claims the wine is fantastic for men and women’s health.

But how much do you know about the story behind Sam Seng Wine? Today, standing here we’ll uncover the little-known history of Sam Seng. Its founder Hee Li journeyed to Hong Kong at 15. He came from Foshan in Mainland China. He sought out his uncle. His uncle ran Tong Zhan Winery. This winery produced a family medicinal wine.

Young Mr. Li quickly learned dietary secrets from his uncle. He decided he needed a full-time job. So he became a salesman. He sold Mainland medicinal wines for a retail firm. In 1971, at 37, Mr. Li faced a turning point. He could stay in wine retailing or start his own business.

He understood Chinese medicinal wine. He had a wholesale network from his sales days. Confident, he decided to produce and sell his own wine. Mr. Li sold his flat in Mei Foo Sun Chuen. He moved to a remote plot on Sai Lau Kok Road in Tsuen Wan. With HK$10,000 and two workers, he started his winery.

His father doubted his plan. But Mr. Li was confident. He knew that besides Western alcohol, Chinese medicinal wine was the only alternative then. Mainland wines tasted too medicinal. They weren’t a pleasure to drink. Hong Kong had about 4,000 wine outlets. Mr. Li saw a chance to create a palatable medicinal wine. He wanted to promote it effectively.

He brewed a new recipe. He focused on aroma and tonic effects. In 1972, one year later, Mr. Li bottled his first Sam Seng Antler Pilose Medicinal Wine. Capital was tight. He sold wine on consignment in small batches. “Money was so tight at that time,” Mr. Li remembered.

They barely had enough to make the wine and buy bottles. As a last resort, they used old whisky bottles. They replaced the labels with their own. This backfired when Mr. Li was fined HK$500 for using another company’s bottles.

Once he earned enough, Mr. Li ordered new bottles. In 1974, he bought a bottling machine. Sam Seng was the first Hong Kong winery to use quality glass bottles and aluminum tops. That same year, Mr. Li registered his brand. “Sam Seng” means “the previous life, current life, and the next life.” It also implies luck and fortune.

Things improved for Mr. Li. Even the oil crisis of the 70s couldn’t shake his business. But in 1975, toxic methanol was found in imported Chinese medicinal wines. This scared people away from all medicinal wines. The scare hit Sam Seng hard. To regain public trust, Mr. Li upgraded his production line.

He began advertising on TV and radio. Supermarkets agreed to stock Sam Seng wine in 1976. He added barcodes to his products. He explored new marketing channels. This resulted in ornamental porcelain wine bottles being sold in duty-free shops.

By 1985, Sam Seng offered over a dozen wine varieties. The most popular were Sam Seng Antler Pilose Medicinal Wine, Deer Tail Wine, and Lingchih Liquor. Business boomed. His old factory couldn’t handle the orders. Mr. Li sought government permission to expand.

In 1979, the government reclaimed his leased land. He had to move to Kwong Pan Tin Tsuen. Then, in 1996, the government wanted his factory land again. Having made good money, Mr. Li bought land in Chuen Lung, Tai Mo Shan. He built a permanent factory. It opened in July of that year. The new factory met the Department of Health’s guidelines. Chinese medicinal wine producers now followed rules for Chinese medicine practitioners.

Mr. Li hired consultants to design the modern plant. Mr. Li’s son, Chung Yan Li, coordinated the factory relocation. He said the government’s deadline caused tension. Construction lagged. Closing down would have meant bankruptcy.

The Chamber of Commerce helped by requesting a deferment. James Tien, the Chamber’s representative, also negotiated with officials. The new HK$15 million factory was designed like a petrol station. This ensured that leaks would be contained by catchment drains. The drains would pump runoff into barrels for disposal. And that my friends, is the remarkable story behind Sam Seng Wine.

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