Longing for a place where the waves meet the shore? Sam Long Wan is such a place. It is a hidden gem on the east coast of the Sai Kung Peninsula. This 3-kilometer-wide bay is known as Tai Long Wan. That means “Big Wave Bay”.
Sam Long Wan is one of the most beautiful spots in Hong Kong. It is a popular destination for surfers seeking the perfect wave. Tai Long Wan boasts four stunning beaches. They stretch along its curve. Sai Wan is also called Tai Long Sai Wan. Ham Tin Wan means “Salty Field Bay”. Then there is Tai Wan which translates directly to “Big Bay”. Finally there is Tung Wan also known as “East Bay”.
However swimming here can be risky due to strong rip currents. These currents can pull swimmers out to sea. These beaches lack lifeguard services. They also do not have shark nets. These are common at other Hong Kong beaches. Over the years drownings have occurred because of these rip currents.
Three tiny islands add to the picturesque scenery. These are Tsim Chau, Tai Chau, and Lan Tau Pai. They sit near the bay’s center. Several small villages dot the landscape around Tai Long Wan. Tai Long Tsuen is the oldest and largest. Ham Tin Tsuen is another village. Also there are Lam Uk Wai and Cheung Uk Wai. The latter three are now ruins.
Tai Long Tsuen was established over 250 years ago. Artifacts from the Neolithic and Bronze Ages were found at Ham Tin. The villages have a rich history. Most houses are over 100 years old. The Li family settled here between 1465 and 1487. In the past about 600 to 700 villagers lived here. They had surnames like Zhan, Zhang, Li, and Dai.
Tai Long Village was the largest and had a village office. It still retains traditional architecture. Ham Tin’s villagers mainly have the surname Wan. They have lived there for generations. Lam Uk Wai and Cheung Uk Wai are smaller. They have been abandoned and covered by plants.
These four villages formed a large group. Villagers were mainly farmers and fishermen. During Hong Kong’s industrial boom many moved to urban areas. They sought better jobs. Transportation was also inconvenient. The villages became deserted as the population declined.
In the past Tai Long villagers relied on fishing and farming. They grew rice and sugarcane. Life was simple and tough. Some walked for hours to Kowloon to sell their goods. Others transported timber by boat to Aberdeen. Today Tai Long still lacks a ferry pier. Villagers have surnames such as Chan and Cheung. Cham Kai-ming settled in Tai Long Tsuen during the Qing dynasty. Today many villagers have moved to Britain. Less than 10 villagers remain.
The coastline features columnar-jointed volcanic rocks. They formed from cooling ash during volcanic eruptions. Cliffs consist of fine-grained tuffs. Sea caves and natural arches dot the landscape.
Tai Long Wan is within the Sai Kung East Country Park. It was declared a Site of Special Scientific Interest in 1979. It is also part of Hong Kong Global Geopark.
The Immaculate Conception Chapel is a Grade III historic building. Catholic missionaries helped villagers starting in the 1860s. They provided medical and material assistance. They also spread their religious beliefs. Most villagers were baptized as Catholic. The Immaculate Conception Chapel was rebuilt in 1931. It served for teaching, worship, and ceremonies. A Sister House was built nearby. Missionaries also conducted weddings and funerals.
The Immaculate Conception Chapel was originally founded in 1867. It was named Holy Family Chapel. It is one of Sai Kung Peninsula’s historic churches. The church expanded to hold 200 to 300 people. In the 1950s over 500 villagers were Catholic. The church became the largest in the area. It was a missionary base. Typhoon Hope damaged the chapel in 1979. The diocese renovated it but removed the clock tower. The chapel reopened in 1981. It closed in 1988. Priests still return for Catholic funerals.
Yuk Ying School was the only primary school in the village. It was next to the chapel. It closed with the chapel in 1988. Missionaries helped set up the school after the war. It educated children who could not attend urban schools. Student numbers declined.
Section 2 of the Maclehose Trail passes through Tai Long Wan. It offers views of peaks, uplands, peninsulas, and bays.
Sam Long Wan tells a story. It is a story of nature, history, and faith. It is a story etched in the landscape. It is a story whispered by the waves.