Didn’t Prince Shotoku once have a villa here? Now look around you. This is Saihoji Temple. It is also known as Kokedera. That means Moss Temple. We are standing in one of Kyoto’s most unique places.
Saihoji Temple has a rich history. It goes all the way back to the Nara period. The priest Gyogi founded it then. In 1339, Muso Kokushi restored it as a Zen temple.
Saihoji’s garden is especially famous. Over 120 types of moss cover it. This creates a beautiful green scene. The garden is a UNESCO World Heritage site. It became popular after World War II. That was partly because of Jiro Osaragi’s novel Kokyo.
The temple’s name has meaning. The pond is shaped like the Chinese character for kokoro. Kokoro means heart and soul. Three islands are in the pond. They are named Sunrise, Sunset, and Mist. The names of the teahouses come from the Blue Cliff Record. It is a book of Zen koans.
Back in the Nara period, the area was Prince Shotoku’s villa. Gyoki made it a temple. This was during Emperor Shomu’s decree to build 49 temples. The original name used different characters. They meant Western Temple. The current name came later. It reflects the spirit of Zen. Gyoki made an Amida Triad image. It was worshipped at the temple.
Kobo Daishi held a hojo-e ceremony at the Golden Pond. This was the first life release ceremony in Japan. It is a Buddhist event where captured animals get released.
Saihoji declined. Nakahara Morokazu restored it. He welcomed Honen Shonin. Honen Shonin decorated the Amida Triad with gold. Muso Kokushi kept the Triad out of respect.
Muso Kokushi restored Saihoji as a Zen temple. He arranged the stones to show Zen spirituality. Shoguns Yoshimitsu and Yoshimasa practiced zazen here. The garden was a model for the Golden and Silver Pavilions.
Ashikaga Yoshimasa built the Silver Pavilion. He wanted his mother to see Saihoji. Women could not visit Saihoji then.
The Onin War destroyed Saihoji by fire. Floods further damaged it. Rennyo Shonin helped rebuild it. Oda Nobunaga ordered Sakugen Shuryo to rebuild the main hall. Floods continued to cause problems during the Edo period. Movements to abolish Buddhism reduced the temple’s land. In 1928, the gardens opened to the public. The Hankyu Railway Arashiyama Line opened too. The moss grew over 100 years.
The main hall got rebuilt in 1969. Domoto Insho painted abstract paintings on the sliding doors. Muso Kokushi changed garden design. Saihoji embraces change.
Now you need reservations to visit. Visitors copy sutras before walking around the garden. This system started in 1977. It protects the moss and allows religious activities. Saihoji has no patron family. Reducing visitors was a hard choice. It preserved the temple and garden.
Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, Kawabata Yasunari, and Steve Jobs loved Saihoji.
Saihoji has some Japanese firsts. Muso Kokushi built Japan’s first dry landscape garden here. Kukai held Japan’s first life release ceremony here. Saihoji is open to change. It introduces new visiting policies.
The moss garden is on the eastern temple grounds. It is arranged around Golden Pond. The pond has three islands. Over 120 moss types cover the area.
Shonantei, Shodando, and Tanhokutei are teahouses in the garden. Shonantei was restored by Sen Shonan. Iwakura Tomomi stayed here. Shodando has a wooden image of Sen Shonan. Zodroku Mashimizu donated Tanhokutei.
The Sairai-do is the main hall. It was rebuilt in 1969. Insho Domoto painted the sliding doors. The three-storied pagoda stores sutras. It honors Bhaisajyaguru.
The northern temple grounds have a Zen rock garden. The Shitodo hall is also here. The stone arrangement shows Muso’s genius.
The gardens are a historical landmark. They are a special place of scenic beauty. A stone monument has a Kyoshi Takahama haiku. Another has writings by Jiro Osaragi. A portrait of Muso Soseki is an important cultural property.
You must make reservations to visit Saihoji. The fee is the highest in Kyoto. Visitors copy a sutra before entering.
Visit during the rainy season or late autumn. The moss is lush during the rainy season. The autumn leaves contrast with the moss.