Saint Mary of the Angels

Nestled on the corner of Boulcott Street and O’Reily Avenue is Saint Mary of the Angels. This isn’t just any church. It’s a story etched in concrete and glass, a testament to Wellington’s spirit. Saint Mary of the Angels has witnessed the city’s transformation since the first modest chapel graced this spot in 1843. Imagine Wellington then, a fledgling settlement. Bishop Pompallier himself blessed that early chapel, a seed that would blossom into the magnificent structure before you. The original wooden church, built in 1874, was named after the beloved Portincula chapel of St. Francis of Assisi. Sadly, a fire in 1918 claimed that building, but from its ashes arose the current Saint Mary of the Angels. This church, opened in 1922, was a bold architectural undertaking. It was designed by Frederick de Jersey Clere, a master of Gothic architecture with a French flair. Its facade echoes the grandeur of the Cathedral of St. Michael and St. Gudula in Brussels. The innovative use of reinforced concrete and brick, combined with the traditional timber roof, was a first for a Gothic church. Look closely at the stained-glass windows. They are more than just decoration. They are storytellers. The clerestory windows, interrupted only by the rose window above the narthex and the crucifixion window above the high altar, create a mesmerizing dance of light and color. The north and south transepts tell further tales, one depicting the fifteen decades of the Rosary, the other illustrating the life of Saint Joseph. Inside, Saint Mary of the Angels houses a rich collection of statuary. You’ll find a marble replica of Michelangelo’s Moses, life-sized representations of the Pietà and the Holy Family, and statues of saints and angels adorning the altars and sanctuary. The high altar, a Gothic marvel of marble, is a focal point of the church. The carved depiction of the Last Supper beneath the altar is a detail not to be missed. Music has always held a special place at Saint Mary of the Angels. The Gregorian chant tradition, begun in 1905, continues to resonate within these walls. The church organ, redesigned in 1984 by Maxwell Fernie, is a unique instrument that adds to the rich musical heritage of Saint Mary of the Angels. The church also holds a special connection to Suzanne Aubert, a woman revered for her compassionate work. Her funeral, held here in 1926, was the largest ever held for a woman in New Zealand. Saint Mary of the Angels has faced adversity. The 2013 earthquakes necessitated a $9.5 million seismic strengthening project. The restoration, completed in 2017, preserved the church’s beauty and ensured its place in Wellington’s future. Saint Mary of the Angels is more than just a church. It’s a living testament to faith, resilience, and the artistic spirit of Wellington.