Ever wonder about the secrets held within seemingly modest facades? Today we will uncover one. We are standing before the Parrocchia di Rio San Martino. This Renaissance Roman Catholic church resides in Venice’s Castello district. Its story is one of faith, art, and Venetian tradition.
Initially founded in the 10th century, the church underwent a significant transformation. From 1546 to 1610 Jacopo Sansovino rebuilt it. Today, the church stands near the Arsenale. A military chaplain now officiates here.
Look closely at the facade. Federico Berchet and Domenico Rupolo designed it in 1897. Step inside Parrocchia di Rio San Martino. Jacopo Guarana’s fresco Saint Martin in Glory adorns the vault. Domenico Bruni painted the quadratura. Matteo Zais portrayed saints and evangelists on the walls.
Notice the funeral monument to Doge Francesco Erizzo. Matteo Carneri completed it in 1633. A chapel features a fresco cycle of the Glory of the Eucharist. Fabio Canal painted the Sacrifice of Isaac and Sacrifice of Mechizedek on the walls.
Consider the altar. Tullio Lombardo brought it here from the church of Santo Sepolcro in the 15th century. In the sacristy you can admire Girolamo da Santacroce’s Last Supper from 1549 and Resurrection. The church also features a Risen Christ altarpiece by Santacroce. Antonio Zanchi and Domenico Bruni frescoed the sacristy ceiling.
Listen closely and perhaps you can imagine the sounds from the organ. Pietro Nachini constructed it. Gaetano Callido restored it. Look to the first altar on the right. Giovanni Segala’s St Cecilia and St Lorenzo Giustiniani is here.
Reflect on Doge Francesco Erizzo’s funereal monument. Mattia Carnero designed it in 1633. Observe the next altar. It contains Giovanni Laudis’ canvas of Holy Family with St Mark and Bishop Foca. At the third altar, see Palma il Giovane’s Madonna in Sorrow. Nearby are Three angels with symbols of the passion and a Deposition by the same painter.
Admire the pulpit. Sebastiano Messenali carved it in 1752. Notice the small altar by Tullio Lombardo. There is also a St John the Evangelist writes the Apocalyptic Gospels by Matteo Ponzone.
Beyond its art, Parrocchia di Rio San Martino connects to a cherished autumn celebration. The feast of San Martino honors a bishop and soldier from Hungary. On November 11th, Venice celebrates with sweets shaped like the Saint on horseback. Children parade with paper crowns. They create music to attract attention. Pastry shops display San Martino’s sweets.
Legend says the church housed relics of Saint Martin. These included a piece of his tunic, a phalanx, and a tibia. The Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista received the tibia for a sum to restore the church. Every November 11th, the relic returned to its original church for one day.
Parrocchia di Rio San Martino is more than a church. It embodies Venetian history and traditions. Its art and stories offer a glimpse into the city’s rich cultural heritage. Take a moment to appreciate this hidden gem. As we move on, remember the treasures it holds.