Melodies of 1960s pop seem to tinkle from the speakers along the shopping street. We are now in Ookayama 1. It has a village-like vibe home to students, families, and older generations.
Ookayama is officially in Meguro. However, it straddles the border between Meguro and Ota wards. It is home to the prestigious Tokyo Institute of Technology. This is the largest university of its kind in Japan.
In the Meiji Era, Ookayama was part of the now-defunct Ebara Ward. The origin of the area’s name is unclear. Some trace it back to the Okada family. They once owned the land around the station. Others simply attribute it to the topography. Oo means “big,” oka means “hill,” and yama means “mountain.”
The Tokyu Meguro Line opened in 1923. It created a route connecting small neighborhoods on the outskirts of Tokyo. Today’s Tokyo Tech relocated to Ookayama around the same time. The development of Ookayama as a residential area coincides with Tokyo’s early 20th-century Garden City Movement. It aimed to create desirable districts for commuters.
Locals on bikes stop by Ichiban Ookayama. This is a busy grocery store. The friendly greengrocer sells low-priced fresh fruit and vegetables. They also sell cheap homemade bentos.
Opposite the grocery store, a Korean food store sells boxes of kimchi. A retro cafe lures people in with the aroma of roasting coffee. Recently, trendy independent eateries have been pumping fresh blood into the small streets. However, there are many long-established businesses too.
Places to eat are never too far away in Ookayama. A variety of pubs and cafes keep students and commuters well-fed. They are also topped up on coffee.
Restaurant SAI comes highly recommended. Customers rave about its organic dishes and wine selection. Yakan is a more classic pub. Locals stop in for a couple of drinks alongside light snacks.
Bakery Contrast specializes in loaves of bread and baguettes. It also has croissants and other French treats. It is so popular that people visit the area just to sample its fluffy bread.
Inagaki Kashiten is an old-fashioned sweet shop. It is crammed with children crowding around arcade games. They select their favorite snacks from the rows of jars. Shops like these are under threat. This makes Inagaki Kashiten not only a nostalgic spot. It’s a place to see a slice of Showa era history in action.
Campanella is a family-run bakery. Customers are lured in by the abstract wooden exterior. They also see trays of freshly baked loaves of bread and cakes. There’s a myriad of treats to sample including milk bread sandwiches.
Interesting at any time of year, Tokyo Tech’s campus is particularly pretty in the spring. Rows of twisted old cherry blossom trees color the main promenade pink.
A combination of old-fashioned charisma and modern conveniences make Ookayama an inviting place. At first glance, it may seem quiet. But as easygoing tunes wash over the shopping street, there’s a feeling that visitors can easily slot in. They can sample the sights and sounds of this village within a city.