Oji-Inari-jinja Shrine

Did the scent of fried tofu skin ever lead you to a spiritual awakening? At Oji-Inari-jinja Shrine, it just might. Oji-Inari-jinja Shrine isn’t just a place of worship. It’s a character in a centuries-old play, a stage for a whimsical fox parade, and a keeper of whispered secrets between humans and the divine. Established sometime before the Heian period (794-1185), Oji-Inari-jinja Shrine has witnessed the ebb and flow of Tokyo’s history. It holds the prestigious title of “Kanto Inari Soji,” bestowed upon it by Minamoto no Yoriyoshi during the Kouhei period (1058-1065). This shrine, dedicated to the Inari Okami, the Shinto deity of foxes, rice, agriculture, and prosperity, has been a place of prayer even for Tokugawa shoguns. The main hall, or honden, houses not one, but three deities: Ukanomitama, Ukemochi, and Wakumusubi. They are all different aspects of Inari. Look around. Notice the absence of the usual torii gate. A unique tiled wooden gate marks the entrance. A kindergarten operates within the shrine grounds, a curious blend of the sacred and the everyday. As you ascend the stone steps, imagine the scene on New Year’s Eve. Hundreds of people, dressed in traditional attire and fox masks, carrying glowing lanterns, parade from the nearby Shozoku Inari Shrine to Oji-Inari-jinja Shrine. This “Kitsune-no-Gyoretsu,” or Fox Parade, reenacts an ancient legend. Foxes from all over the Kanto region, disguised in human clothing, journeyed to Oji Inari Shrine to welcome the new year. This tradition, inspired by local folklore and Utagawa Hiroshige’s ukiyo-e print, “New Year’s Eve Foxfires at the Changing Tree, Oji,” has become a beloved modern spectacle. Oji-Inari-jinja Shrine has even inspired a rakugo story, “Oji no Kitsune” (“The Fox of Oji”). It tells of a man who tricks a fox into visiting a local tamagoyaki (sweet omelette) shop. This shop, Ougiya, established in 1648, was once a grand multi-story restaurant. Though now a humble stall, it continues to serve up delicious omelettes, a testament to its enduring legacy. The shrine’s grounds are filled with charming details. Fox statues, each holding a “hoshi no tama” (a mystical ball said to hold the fox’s soul and foxfire), stand guard. Smaller shrines and a “fox hole” nestle on the hillside, marking the place where foxes once roamed freely. The magnificent Honden, built in the Hachimono-zukuri style, boasts intricate carvings. Even the way the bell band is tied possesses a unique charm. Oji-Inari-jinja Shrine is a place where ancient traditions and modern life intertwine. It is a place where whispers of folklore mingle with the laughter of children from the kindergarten next door. It is a place where the aroma of fried tofu skin might just lead you on a path to a deeper understanding of Japanese culture and spirituality.