Muk Wu

Across the Shenzhen River, the skyline of Shenzhen rises. But here, we stand before Muk Wu, a village with a history far richer than the modern metropolis across the water. Muk Wu, meaning “wood lake,” speaks to a time when fertile land, trees, and streams defined this area. Imagine the To, Wong, and Yam families, the original settlers, cultivating this land. The To clan, whose name echoes through Muk Wu even today, became the dominant family. Their ancestral roots stretch back to Xi’an, a city steeped in centuries of Chinese history. Walk with me through Muk Wu, past the gate tower, a relic of the Qing Dynasty, its original design a stark contrast to the modern world encroaching just beyond. The Tin Hau Temple, built around 1912, stands as a testament to the villagers’ enduring faith. Its vibrant decorations and meticulous upkeep whisper of countless prayers and festivals celebrated within its walls. The village hall, or sun teng, now derelict, once pulsed with life. Here, villagers celebrated weddings, registered births, and held important gatherings. Imagine children learning their lessons in one half of the hall, while the other resonated with the chants of worship. Look closely. You might still see traces of these past lives in the weathered stone and timber. Muk Wu also holds secrets beneath the surface. Archaeological finds of ancient kilns, now housed in the Hong Kong Museum of History, speak of a community that thrived on craftsmanship. The nearby Muk Wu pumping station, a vital artery of modern Hong Kong, distributes over 70% of the city’s freshwater. It serves as a reminder of Muk Wu’s continuing importance, now not just to the village, but to the millions who depend on its resources. Though just a handful of indigenous villagers remain, Muk Wu comes alive during festivals. The Mid-Autumn Festival, Chinese New Year, Ching Ming, and Chung Yeung draw tourists and descendants of the original clans back to their ancestral home. The buses overflow, the air crackles with excitement, and the spirit of Muk Wu endures.