Have you heard the Noh play Sumidagawa? It whispers through the stones of Mokuboji. This Buddhist temple stands on the Sumidagawa’s edge in eastern Tokyo. Mokuboji is more than just a temple. It’s a stage for a sorrowful tale.
Mokuboji is known for the Umewaka-tsuka. This is supposedly a burial mound. It contains the remains of Umewaka. He was a young boy kidnapped and killed by slavers. The Noh play Sumidagawa tells his story. It is a tragic story.
Imagine Edo period travelers visiting Mokuboji. It was a famous place or meisho. They came to pay respects to Umewaka. His story resonated deeply. The temple was a place of remembrance.
But history took a turn. In 1888, the Meiji government abolished the temple. This was part of the anti-Buddhist haibutsu kishaku policy. The site became Umewaka Shrine. It honored Umewaka Sannō Gongen. He was a deified form of the boy buried there.
Yet, the story of Mokuboji doesn’t end there. The following year, the temple was re-established. Mokuboji rose again. It reclaimed its place as a Buddhist temple.
Let’s consider Utagawa Hiroshige’s woodblock print. It’s titled “Mokuboji Temple, Uchigawa Inlet, Gozensaihata.” This print captures a moment in time. Two well-dressed ladies arrive by boat. They are heading to a restaurant near Mokuboji Temple. This restaurant was famous for taro and clams. The print also shows Gozensaihata. It was known as “The Honorable Vegetable Garden”. Fresh vegetables were grown here for the shogun’s table.
The story of Umewaka is central to Mokuboji. It began in 976. A young boy was kidnapped. He died of sickness and exhaustion. A priest built a mound in his memory. That mound became the Mokuboji Temple. Even today services honor Umewaka every April 15th.
World War II changed the landscape. Bombing destroyed the Gozensaihata area. High-rise housing replaced it. Mokuboji was moved closer to the Sumida River. It now sits in what was once the mouth of the Uchigawa Inlet.
Mokuboji stands as a testament to resilience. It embodies both sorrow and renewal. It is a place where history and art intertwine. The story of Umewaka echoes through the ages. This humble temple carries a heavy history. Remember Umewaka as you explore Mokuboji.