“Tea restaurant.” That’s the literal meaning of “cha chaan teng”. These restaurants originated in Hong Kong. Mat Chau Teng is a place where you can learn about Hong Kong’s culinary culture.
Cha Chaan Tengs are commonly found here. They are also in Macau and parts of Guangdong. These restaurants are now established in major Chinese communities in Western countries. This includes Australia, Canada, the United Kingdom, and the United States.
Think of a greasy spoon cafe or an American diner. Cha Chaan Tengs are known for eclectic and affordable menus. They include dishes from Hong Kong cuisine and Hong Kong-style Western cuisine. They draw comparisons to Western cafes. This is due to their casual settings. It’s also because of menus revolving around coffee and tea.
Since the 1850s, Western cuisine in Hong Kong had been available only in full-service restaurants. This was a privilege limited to the upper class. It was financially out of reach for most working-class locals. In the 1920s, dining in a Western restaurant could cost up to $10. A working local earned $15 to $50 per month.
After the Second World War, Hong Kong culture was influenced by British culture. Locals began to add milk to tea and eat cakes. Some Hongkongers set up cha chaan tengs. They targeted a local audience. They provided different kinds of Canto-Western cuisine and drinks with very low prices. This led to them being regarded as “cheap Western food”. It was also called “soy sauce Western food”.
In the 1950s and 60s, cha chaan tengs sprang up. Rising lower-class incomes made such “Western food” affordable. This caused “soy sauce western restaurants” and bing sutt (“ice rooms”) to turn into cha chaan teng. They satisfied the high demand of affordable and fast Hong Kong-style Western food.
During the 1997 Asian Financial Crisis, cha chaan tengs became much more popular in Hong Kong. They still provided the cheapest food for the public.
Before 2007, most cha chaan tengs allowed people to smoke. Since January 1, 2007, Hong Kong law prohibits smoking within the indoor premises of restaurants.
In April 2007, one of the Hong Kong political officers suggested that cha chaan teng be listed in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Lists. This was because of its important role in Hong Kong society. In December 2007, a lawmaker proposed that Hong Kong’s cha chaan teng be recognised by UNESCO. However, despite these proposals, cha chaan teng was not added to UNESCO’s lists.
In June 2014, a number of well-known dishes at cha chaan tengs were enlisted into the first Intangible Cultural Heritage Inventory of Hong Kong. This includes milk tea, yuenyeung, pineapple bun, and egg tart.
Cha Chaan Teng establishments provide tea to customers as soon as they are seated. Some patrons use this hot tea to wash their utensils. The “tea” in the name refers to inexpensive black tea. It differs from the traditional Chinese tea served in dim sum restaurants and teahouses.
The “tea” may also refer to tea drinks. Hong Kong-style milk tea and iced lemon tea are served in many cha chaan tengs. The older generations in Hong Kong refer to dining in these restaurants as yum sai cha. It means “drinking Western tea”.
Usually, tea restaurants have high customer turnover. It is about 10–20 minutes for a sitting. Customers typically receive their dishes after five minutes. The waiters take the order with their left hand. They pass the dishes with their right hand. This is said to embody Hong Kong’s hectic lifestyle.
Because of the limited land and expensive rent, cha chaan tengs are gradually being replaced by chain restaurants. However, they are increasing in popularity overseas. Many are opening up in Cantonese diaspora communities. They are a casual alternative to more traditional Chinese restaurants.
Hung Wan Cafe was packed. Some people were taking photos. Diners enjoyed fried rice and baked pastries. They said they were one-of-a-kind. The food has a home-made touch. Patrons feel emotionally bonded to this place.
Hong Kong’s cha chaan tengs offer a glimpse into the city’s soul. Enjoy the tastes and stories that these unique establishments offer.