Did you ever wonder where the world’s largest book is hidden? Right here at Maha Ku Tho Taw Pagoda you find it. This isn’t just any pagoda. Maha Ku Tho Taw Pagoda is a testament to King Mindon’s vision and devotion.
King Mindon built Maha Ku Tho Taw Pagoda in 1857. It was part of Mandalay’s founding. Later he convened the Fifth Buddhist Synod in 1871. He wanted to leave a legacy. He wanted to set the Tipitaka in stone. This was meant to last five millennia after Buddha.
Imagine the year is 1860. Construction begins on this grand project. The hti or umbrella was mounted on July 19 1862. The inscriptions were revealed to the public on May 4 1868. Think of the meticulous work involved. Scribes copied texts onto marble slabs. Stonemasons then carved the inscriptions. Each stone contains 80 to 100 lines. The letters were originally filled with gold ink. A scribe needed three days to copy both sides of a stone. A stonemason could finish up to 16 lines a day.
Maha Ku Tho Taw Pagoda houses 729 kyauksa gu. These are stone-inscription caves. Each holds a marble slab. Both sides are inscribed with text from the Tipitaka. This is the entire Pali Canon of Theravada Buddhism. One more stone stands at the southeast corner. This stone records how the whole project came into being.
The stupa itself is 188 feet high. It is modeled after the Shwezigon Pagoda. This pagoda is at Nyaung-U near Bagan. The grounds were once adorned with 34 brick rest houses. These zayats surrounded the pagoda. The east side was the only exception.
Enter through the ornate teak doors from the south. These doors are carved with floral designs scrolls and Deva Nats. Walk through the covered approach or saungdan. Admire the frescoes under the roof. You will see star flower trees between the stone stupas. These trees emit a jasmine-like fragrance. Families often picnic here in the shade. They pick flowers to make chains for Buddha or to wear in their hair. Children play hide and seek among the stupas. On the southwest terrace is a very old tree. It is believed to be 250 years old. Its boughs are supported by props.
After the British annexation in 1885 Mandalay became Fort Dufferin. Troops were stationed around Mandalay Hill. Religious sites became off-limits to the Burmese. A revenue surveyor appealed to Queen Victoria. She ordered the withdrawal of troops in 1890.
Great sadness followed as the pagoda had been looted. Its hti was stripped of valuables. The zayats were ruined and bricks were used to build roads. Brass bells disappeared from the kyauksa gu stupas. The gold ink from the marble slabs was also gone.
Restoration began in 1892. Monks royal family members and former officers formed a committee. Donations came from original donors and the public. Gold letters were replaced with black ink. Stone htis replaced the metal ones.
In 1913 Sir Po Tha repaired and regilded the pagoda. Later the Society of Pitaka Stone Inscriptions donated an iron gate. Children and grandchildren of King Mindon donated the north and east gates in 1932.
In 2013 UNESCO recognized the Maha Lawkamarazein or Kuthodaw Inscription Shrines. They contain the world’s largest book. They were inscribed on the Memory of the World Register.
Maha Ku Tho Taw Pagoda stands as a symbol of royal merit. It embodies resilience and the enduring power of Buddhist teachings. As you leave take with you the echoes of history. Remember the fragrance of star flowers. Carry the weight of those marble pages in your mind.