Ma Wat Wai

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“Wat Chung Wai?” a child’s voice chirped, echoing through the narrow lanes near Ma Wat Wai. “Is that where the onions grow as tall as houses?” Ma Wat Wai, nestled in Lung Yeuk Tau, Fanling, whispers tales of a time when spring onions flourished so abundantly, they gave the village its original name, Wat Chung Wai. The Tang clan, who built Ma Wat Wai during the Qianlong reign of the Qing dynasty (1736-1795), likely witnessed these verdant fields. Imagine them standing before the imposing entrance tower, a two-story granite and grey brick structure, guarded by two chained-ring iron gates. This very tower, a declared monument of Hong Kong, stands as a testament to the village’s enduring history. Originally, Ma Wat Wai was a fortified village. Sturdy walls enclosed the homes within, with watchtowers standing sentinel at each corner. The houses lined up in orderly rows, leading to a communal shrine at the heart of the village. Today, much of the original wall has crumbled, a reminder of time’s relentless march. The entrance tower, however, remains. It proudly displays a red sandstone lintel, etched with the characters “Wat Chung,” a tangible link to the village’s agricultural past. Though the interior remains closed to the public, preserving the tranquility of the residents, the exterior whispers stories of flourishing spring onions, watchful eyes from corner towers, and the enduring legacy of the Tang clan. As you stand before Ma Wat Wai, imagine the bustle of village life within its walls, the scent of blooming onions wafting through the air, a testament to the enduring spirit of a village rooted in history.

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