Breathing in the fresh air, imagine a village where time seems to slow down. This is Lung Keng Kan. It is a place where the heron rests peacefully. It perches on branches in the calm waters of Starling Inlet.
Lung Keng Kan is a village at the road’s end. It is remote by Hong Kong standards. You will find it a short drive from the restricted border area. This is a no-man’s land. It is closed off to all but the indigenous residents.
Looking across the bay, you’ll see Mainland China. It is marked by tower blocks and scaffolding. In the distance, there is Minsk World. This is a theme park based around a retired Russian aircraft carrier.
Once, this side of the border had more. Now, the reverse is true. Sha Tau Kok is now an extension of Shenzhen. Shenzhen is a booming metropolis. It showcases China’s economic miracle. Sha Tau Kok used to mark the frontier. It was between a stable British Colony and a nation facing political and social upheavals.
In the 50s, 60s, and 70s, people gathered in the hills. They smuggled themselves across the border. At night, they would swim across. Border guards patrolled this area then. There was a peculiar rule. If asylum seekers made it to urban areas, they could stay. But if caught in the countryside, they faced deportation.
Lung Keng Kan seems lively at first glance. Cyclists and hikers gather here. They assemble at informal eating places. These places have walls plastered with visitor photos. The photos show local celebrities. You will also see plastic furniture and fluorescent lighting.
Once off the main road, the village houses stand mostly abandoned. They are overgrown. Many still have red paper blessings on either side of the front door. Only a few show signs of occupancy. These include air conditioning units, potted plants, and laundry.
Passing a fenced-off enclosure, you will see a sitting-out area. It’s a vague public space. It seems to be the fate of leftover pockets of land. Beside it is a children’s playground. It’s surrounded by a wire mesh barrier. The spring riders look brand new. A chipmunk and a seahorse take pride of place on a red rubber mat. But today, there are no children in Lung Keng Kan.
Most villagers have emigrated. They moved to the UK, America, or Australia. Lung Keng Kan could be a quiet respite. It offers mangroves and fishponds. Restoring these houses could be viable. Many have traditional brickwork and grey tiled roofs.
However, these villages are too remote for commuting. It would take an hour or more to reach urban areas. Hong Kongers want to be close to all the action. Convenience is the most important thing.
Lung Keng Kan may seem sad. It is peaceful and in a beautiful location, but it is abandoned. Still, in a dense city like Hong Kong, a place remains untouched. It is yet to be developed. Perhaps one day, Lung Keng Kan will look better. There is a lot of history behind this village.