Imagine two white cranes gracefully descending near Kakurinji Temple. They spread their wings protectively over a small golden Jizo statue.
Welcome to Kakurinji Temple. This temple’s story is steeped in legend and devotion. It all began with Kobo Daishi, the founder of Shingon Buddhism. He was training on this very mountain.
Legend says Emperor Kanmu ordered Kobo Daishi to found Kakurinji Temple in 798. Kobo Daishi witnessed the cranes guarding the Jizo statue. Moved by this sight, he carved a 90-centimeter Jizo statue. He placed the golden Jizo inside. He named the temple Kakurinji which means Crane Forest Temple.
The mountain near Kakurinji resembles Vulture Peak in India. This is where Buddha liked to retreat. So, the temple’s mountain became Ryojuzan which means Vulture Peak.
Emperors and warlords have long revered Kakurinji. Emperor Heijo, Emperor Saga, and Emperor Junna all honored it. Minamoto no Yoritomo and Yoshitsune also showed their respect. The temple prospered through buildings and land donations.
Kakurinji Temple remarkably survived the Tensho period fires of 1567-1568. Many Awa temples burned. Kakurinji was spared, perhaps because of its remote location. Locals affectionately call the temple Otsuru or Otsuru-san. It is a place where wild birds dance in the air.
Look to the east. Notice the three-storied pagoda reaching for the sky. Large trees surround it. Construction began in 1817 and finished in 1827. The pagoda’s railings are special. The first floor features giboshi ornaments. They resemble onions. The second floor has hane with angled ends. The third floor displays gyakurento lotus-shaped ornaments. A grand ceremony marked its inauguration. The temple still possesses the original ceremonial tools and design drawings. It was designated a Prefectural Important Cultural Property in 1952. This is the only three-storied pagoda in Tokushima Prefecture.
Consider the pilgrimage trail that winds up the mountain. It stretches four kilometers from the base to the temple gate. The walk takes about one and a half hours. Twenty-one stone pillars guide pilgrims. These markers are called choseki. They indicate the distance. Each cho measures about 109 meters. The stones bear era names like Joji, Oan, Eiwa, and Meitoku. Imagine the devotion of Kobo Daishi followers during the Muromachi period. Volunteers preserved the path for 20 years. It was designated a National Historic Site in 1998.
Take note of the Namikiri Jizo Bosatsu and the Standing Jizo Bosatsu. You can also see the choseki, eleven stones inscribed with Muromachi era names. They mark the pilgrimage route to the Hondo. These are the oldest choseki in Tokushima.
Kakurinji stands as a testament to faith and history. From its legendary founding to its architectural treasures, it embodies centuries of spiritual devotion.