Is it possible to find Edo charm in Tokyo? Yes. Iriya is a middle-class district of Taito ward. Much of the traditional Edo charm is still intact here. The streets are narrow. Small two or three-story wooden houses line both sides.
People living in Iriya mainly have small-scale businesses. They run their businesses on the ground floor and live on the upper floors. Iriya also has a few modern apartment buildings. Let’s discover the better-known reminders of old Tokyo in Iriya. We can explore the Shingen-ji Temple and the Otori Shrine.
First, we visit Shingen-ji Temple. It is also known as Iriya no Kishibojin. Nichiyu, a Buddhist monk, built it in 1659. It is dedicated to Kishibojin. She is the Buddhist goddess of easy delivery, children, and mothers. Shingen-ji Temple became famous during the Meiji period. The temple began celebrating Iriya Asagao-Ichi. This is the Morning Glory Fair.
The Morning Glory Fair is held at the temple grounds every July 6, 7, and 8. It coincides with Tanabata. Tanabata is on July 7. According to Chinese legend, it is the only day when Orihime and Hikoboshi can cross the Milky Way to see each other. They are separated lovers. It symbolizes the day when wishes come true. People write their wishes on pieces of paper. They hang them on bamboo branches.
The Fair originated during the Meiji period. A gardener planted the morning glory in different parts of Iriya. During this fair, huge numbers of people come every year. Hundreds of shops sell potted morning glory. They line the streets of Iriya and the temple grounds. Stalls of foods, drinks, and various knick-knacks are also set up. Shingen-ji Temple is located just one minute from Iriya Station.
Next is the Otori Shrine. It is located 7 minutes from Iriya Station. It is dedicated to the deity of good fortune. The deity has many worshippers. They come to the shrine to pray for good fortune and success in business. This shrine is particularly famous for its Tori no Ichi Fair. There are many Otori shrines in Tokyo. All of them hold this fair. But the one in Iriya is particularly famous.
The Tori no Ichi Fair is held every November on the days of the rooster. Tori is one of the twelve animal signs of the zodiac. It has its days in November. During the festival, stalls sell kamade rakes. They are set up on the shrine grounds. These good-luck bamboo rakes are decorated with masks and old coins. They are supposed to rake in good fortune and wealth. Hundreds of people visit the shrine during the fair. They pray for wealth and success. They buy these rakes as lucky charms.
Finally, the Shotaro Ikenami Memorial Museum is an 8-minute walk from Iriya Station. Shotaro Ikenami was a popular novelist. He wrote historical novels set in the Edo period. He was born and raised in Taito. He loved the area very much. The museum is a dedication to Shotaro Ikenami and his works. The museum has a reproduction of his study with his belongings. It also has an exhibition of his manuscripts and paintings. The museum also houses a library. It has a good collection of historical novels published both before and after the war. There is a small museum shop as well. Visitors can buy souvenirs related to Ikenami.
So, you see Iriya is not just a station on the Tokyo Metro Hibiya Line. It is a place where the past and present intertwine. Shingen-ji Temple, Otori Shrine, and the Shotaro Ikenami Memorial Museum are windows into Tokyo’s soul.