Imagine samurai warriors once walked these very streets of Horiecho. Today, we explore the story of this Tokyo neighborhood. It is a place reborn three times.
Horiecho transformed greatly over the years. During the Edo period, samurai residences lined these streets. Specifically, feudal lords resided here. Some parts of Nihonbashi Hisamatsucho had merchant homes. However, many shops sold swords. It was a quiet neighborhood. This contrasted with the lively Ningyocho where craftsmen lived. The residences of the Kasama Clan had storehouses. The Shogunate kept its gold coins there. This affair was top secret. Nobody knows the exact locations of these storehouses even today.
With the fall of the Tokugawa Shogunate, Horiecho changed. In 1871, the land was handed over to the people. Prestigious Japanese restaurants were built. Wealthy merchants enjoyed dining with geishas. This colorful dining culture started here.
Before 1972, the Hamacho River flowed between Nihonbashi Hamacho and Nihonbashi Ningyocho. It was a popular starting point for Sumida River sightseeing trips. Horiecho was famous as a stylish and luxurious town. At its peak, it had over 250 geishas and almost 100 restaurants. The geishas in Yoshicho were stylish and skilled. They attracted famous and wealthy business owners. Sadayakko, the first Japanese actress, was a geisha from Yoshicho.
In 1977, town names were revised. Yoshicho began to disappear. So did the businessmen, geishas, and fancy restaurants. Only Hamada-ya remains from that era. It has been in business for over a hundred years. Now, only a dozen or so geishas remain.
The Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 damaged Horiecho greatly. However, Kiyosubashi Street was formed. It became the pride of the downtown district. Hamacho Park along the Sumida River is the largest park in Chuo Ward. In 1929, the residence of the Hosokawa daimyo family was renovated. It opened as a hall for strolling and exercising. People also held Oedo Festivals here.
Today, Nihonbashi Hamacho and Nihonbashi Hisamatsucho have a unique townscape. Buildings, homes, and shopping streets are all nearby. You might find a traditional sweets shop. It is run by an old man who insists on making sweets his way. A modern cafe might stand next to a retro-style restaurant.
Condominiums are now built over the ruins of daimyo residences and fancy restaurants. A growing number of young couples live here. Many people have lived here for a long time. Their children show an interest in town activities. In 1945, an air raid destroyed the area. Now, a mass called Fureai-no-Hana sends messages to victims. It includes casualties of the 2011 Tohoku Earthquake and Tsunami.
Suitengu Shrine attracts worshippers. They hope for safe childbirth and pregnancy. The shrine offers good luck charms. These include wooden pictorial offerings of dogs and water imp masks. The official shrine is in Nihonbashi Kakigaracho. However, the shrine in Nihonbashi Hamacho temporarily serves as the main shrine until 2017 due to restoration work.
The Hamacho Pedestrian Path runs through the ruins along the Hamacho River. It is a spot for relaxation. You can feel history and culture here. You’ll discover ruins of doctor’s homes and a Benkei statue.
Meijiza was built in 1873. It is one of Tokyo’s three representative theaters. Originally, it centered on Kabuki plays. Now, it hosts historical plays and Enka singers.
Kiyosubashi is a suspension bridge over the Sumida River. It was built in 1928. It is modeled after a bridge in Germany. At night, it is beautifully lit. From here, you can see the Tokyo Skytree.
Horiecho is a neighborhood with a rich past. It has transformed many times. It honors its history. It also embraces the future.