Atop Mount Nakao stands Honmyō-ji Temple a place steeped in history. This isn’t just any temple. It’s the highest-ranking Nichiren sect temple in Kyushu. Honmyō-ji holds a special significance. It’s the final resting place of Katō Kiyomasa a powerful daimyō. He built Kumamoto Castle and was a devout follower of Nichiren Buddhism.
The temple itself is divided into two parts. There’s the Jōchibyō Katō Kiyomasa’s grave. Then there’s the Honmyō-ji temple proper. A remarkable path leads to the temple. It begins in Kamikumamoto. A large torii gate marks the entrance. Twelve smaller temples called tatchū line the path. From the temple the Munatsuki Gangi awaits. It’s a steep climb of 176 stone steps. These steps lead to Kiyomasa’s grave.
The road is adorned with numerous stone lanterns. Believers have contributed these over time. People come to pray at the grave’s altar. There’s also a museum. It houses many traditional items of historical importance. High above sits a large statue of Katō Kiyomasa. You’ll need to climb 300 steps to reach it.
Honmyō-ji also celebrates Tonsha-e. This festival takes place on July 23. It’s the day before Katō Kiyomasa’s death. Many priests spend the night writing the long Lotus Sutra. This is to comfort Kiyomasa’s spirit.
The temple’s history is long and complex. It began in Osaka in 1585. It was initially built to comfort the spirit of Katō Kiyomasa’s father. In 1600 it moved to Kumamoto Castle. Kiyomasa’s grave was built on Mount Nakao in 1611. The temple in Kumamoto Castle burned down. It was relocated to its present site near the grave in 1614.
In 1871 the Shinto shrine portion of the grave was moved. It became the Katō Shrine at Kumamoto Castle. This was due to the separation of Shintoism and Buddhism. The Satsuma Rebellion of 1877 partially destroyed the temple. Both the temple and grave were later rebuilt. Throughout the Edo and Meiji periods Honmyō-ji drew many visitors. It became a popular recreation spot for people from Kumamoto.
Even during the Edo and Meiji periods a community of leprosy patients lived around the temple. They begged for money from visitors. In the 1930s a movement aimed to remove leprosy patients from the prefecture. Many were hospitalized in sanatoriums across the country. On July 9 1940 157 leprosy patients living near Honmyō-ji were forcibly hospitalized.
Honmyō-ji Temple remains a place of peace and reflection. It’s also a testament to its rich and sometimes difficult history. Stand here for a moment. Absorb the atmosphere. Let the stories of the past surround you. Honmyō-ji invites contemplation. It invites understanding. It invites you to connect with the layers of history. This sacred place continues its enduring legacy.