High above Stuttgart’s city center lies a special place. It is the Heinrich-Heine-Höhe. Have you ever been somewhere so close and yet so high above?
From here, the view is wonderful. You can see the most important buildings in Stuttgart. Directly opposite is the Villa Reitzenstein. Today, it houses the Ministry of State of Baden-Württemberg. It is the official residence of the Minister President.
But why is this vantage point named after Heinrich Heine? The story behind the name is quite interesting. In 1906, the Stuttgart City Council decided to name a street after Heine. This was to mark the 50th anniversary of his death.
The decision was not without controversy. Heine was a poet, writer, and journalist. He was born in Düsseldorf. He was seen as a controversial figure. Some Germans hated him because of his Jewish background. Also his political views were not appreciated by everyone. He favored France and revolution.
One columnist for the “Deutsche Reichspost” voiced his opposition in 1911. He said he wasn’t antisemitic. But he considered Heine a traitor and hater of Germany. He also mentioned Heine had insulted Swabian poets. He referred to Heine as a “dirty Francophile.” The columnist claimed naming the street after Heine was a partisan move. It was a nod to democratic and social democratic radicalism.
The street named after Heine was located near the Villa Reitzenstein. Today it houses the State Ministry. But in 1933, the street was renamed Richard-Wagner-Strasse. Later, another street was named after Heine in 1946. It was located in Stuttgart Degerloch. It stretched from Sonnenberg to the Dornhalden- and Waldfriedhof.
So, while the street no longer bears his name, this vantage point ensures Heine is not forgotten. From the Heinrich-Heine-Höhe, we can appreciate the view. We can also reflect on the debates surrounding Heine’s legacy.
To reach this viewpoint, take the U15 tram to the Bubenbad stop. From there, it is just a short walk of about 300 meters. The address is Richard-Wagner-Strasse 28, 70184 Stuttgart.
As you stand here, consider the words of Kurt Tucholsky. He called Heine a “century guy.” He was an artist who expressed pain, death, rage, hate, love for homeland, and loathing for the fatherland in his verses. Tucholsky remarked on the disparity between war memorials and Heine memorials in Germany. He said the ratio reflected the power of might versus spirit.
The Heinrich-Heine-Höhe offers not only a beautiful panorama. It also provides a place for contemplation. It is a place to think about history, controversy, and the enduring power of words. It reminds us of the complex relationship between a nation and its artists.