Is it possible that the most interesting stories lie not in sunlight but in shadow? Here at the Gruftkapelle, or crypt chapel, in Vienna, we delve into a world where silence speaks volumes and history is etched in stone.
The Gruftkapelle is part of St. Michael’s Church. St. Michael’s Church has a rich history. Its late Romanesque elements date back to the first half of the 13th century. The choir was likely built between 1327 and 1340. The lower parts of the spire followed. Over the centuries, the church was rebuilt and extended several times. It has largely remained in its present form since 1792.
Today, St. Michael’s Church is mostly visited for its catacombs. The unusual environment prevents bodies from decomposing. About 4000 people were buried here from 1631 to 1784. Hundreds of coffins can still be seen. They are adorned with flowers or skulls. There are also mummified corpses, some in baroque frock-coats and wigs. Pietro Metastasio, who wrote some of Mozart’s operas’ librettos, is the most famous person buried in the catacombs.
The crypt tours are only offered in German at present. Public tours are every Friday at 12 pm and 2 pm. They also occur every Saturday at 10 am and 12 pm. Admission is 8.00 Euro per person or 4.00 Euro per child. The duration is about 45 minutes. Private tours by appointment are also available in English. The contact is +43 650 5338003 or gruft@michaelerkirche.at. The minimum charge is 48.00 Euro for six people. It costs 8.00 Euro for each additional person. The meeting point is outside the main entrance of the church. Please adhere to the filming and photography ban. No dogs are allowed for obvious reasons.
St. Michael’s Crypt was created in the 16th and 17th centuries. This resulted from the closure of the surrounding graveyard in 1508. It began with individual burial vaults for the nobles. These were accessible through the burial vault slabs in the church floor. These slabs still exist today. In 1676 and 1678, the big parish church was located under the nave of the church. The priest’s crypt was under the high altar. This opened access to the middle class. The practice was to connect the individual neighbouring vaults by alleyways.
The Mariahilf cemetery in the area of St. Michael’s Church was consecrated in 1660. The Viennese living in the inner city rejected it as too far away. This meant that the people living in the center were buried in St. Michael’s Church. The people in the remote parishes were buried in Mariahilf. According to the court order of Emperor Joseph II of 11 December 1783, no further burials were carried out in the entire inner city. Thus, there were no more burials in the crypt of St. Michael’s either. At the same time, the remote churches Mariahilf and St. Joseph were declared independent parishes. Even if these monasteries still had to pay their funeral fees to St. Michael’s Church until 1833, this marked the end as a burial church.
As you descend into the Gruftkapelle, feel the temperature drop. The air is heavy with the scent of history. It is a reminder of lives lived and passed. Consider the countless souls resting here. Think about their stories interwoven with Vienna’s grand narrative. Take a moment to reflect on the dance of life and death. It is a dance that continues here in the silent depths of the Gruftkapelle.