Is it possible to find magic in Vienna? Absolutely. Right here stands the Gartenpavillon. This may seem like just another beautiful structure. But it holds secrets and stories.
The Gartenpavillon is linked to Franz I Stephan von Lothringen. He was Maria Theresia’s husband. He started building a menagerie in the Schönbrunn Palace gardens around 1745. He had time to follow his passions, including science.
The Gartenpavillon is in the middle of the oldest part of Tiergarten Schönbrunn. It is well-centered and octagonal. The Gartenpavillon is painted in Schönbrunn yellow. Today, it is a restaurant that can be quite expensive.
Step inside. You’ll see beautiful artwork. The paintings are inspired by Ovid’s Metamorphosis. Not Kafka’s version. That would be funny.
When I first stepped in as an adult, I was confused. Schnitzel was on the menu. But there is no kitchen in that small octagon. There are only tables. The little Gartenpavillon seems like a magician.
The Schnitzel reveals a secret. There must be something underneath. A cellar. And there is. A huge cellar system is down there. It once stored food for the animals. Now, it is a kitchen.
A rumor whispers. Come closer. It says Franz Stephan of Lothringen had a secret alchemy laboratory. It was right underneath his breakfast Gartenpavillon. Spooky.
This Gartenpavillon is a magician itself. Built by a mighty alchemist. Did he use his power to influence Maria Theresia’s father? Did he brew a love potion? Did the heir of the Habsburg throne fall in love with him?
Franz Stephan was not that secretive. But he was a Freemason. He embraced free education. Shortly after building his menagerie, he let school classes visit. They saw exotic animals. Imagine never seeing an elephant. Then, you see one in front of you. It blows your mind. Soon, the menagerie opened to the public.
Franz Stephan was a hobby scientist. Exotic animals and plants were part of his passion. He bought a huge collection of minerals and fossils. This became the National History Museum’s basic stock.
Franz Stephan did experiments. Maybe he had a laboratory under the Gartenpavillon for summer experiments. But he had a real laboratory in some palais. Why would he need a secret one?
He was good with money. He built modern factories that made a lot of profit. His son Josef II inherited this fortune. He filled Austria’s war-empty treasury with it.
An alchemist might say he manufactured gold in his secret cellar laboratory. Maybe out of elephant dung. Others see him as a financial genius. His success was based on market observations.
He founded two of my favorite places in Vienna. He taught his son Josef II well. Josef made real reforms for the people. He allowed Jews to use streets and wear what they want.
Franz Stephan brought Gerard Van Swieten to Vienna. Van Swieten helped found a medical school. Bram Stoker used him as inspiration for Van Helsing. Intriguing, right? But that is another story.
The Tiergarten Schönbrunn is open every day. It is pricy. But they use the money in very nice ways. It is worth a visit. The magical Gartenpavillon is only one reason.