Paying homage to simpler times, Em Golde Kappes stands as a beacon of Cologne’s rich tavern culture. This isn’t just any pub. It is a trip back in time. Matthias Becker, a Nippes landlord, opened Em Golde Kappes on August 30, 1913. He sought patronage for his “top-fermented beer house”.
But where does the name “Em Golde Kappes” come from? Before 1864, Florastrasse was called Kappesgasse. Kappes means cabbage in the local dialect. The street was named for the area’s cabbage farmers.
Look above the main entrance to Em Golde Kappes. See the gilded cabbage head topped with a brewer’s star? That shining cabbage isn’t just decoration. It is a symbol. Another gilded cabbage head is part of a carved fresco above the entrance. Four masks adorn the north facade. They represent the four temperaments: choleric, phlegmatic, melancholic, and sanguine.
Em Golde Kappes never brewed its own beer. Until January 2009, Mühlen-Kölsch from the Brauerei zur Malzmühle was served. Like all traditional Kölsch pubs, a Köbes serves guests. The atmosphere is defined by a historic Kölsch pub interior. The Thekenschaaf or “confessional” remains. It offers a view into the guest rooms. Polished wooden tables, wood trim, and small stained-glass windows add to the ambiance.
A “kölsche Fooderkaat” lists dishes in the Kölsch dialect with German translations. The pub is the headquarters of the Nippeser Bürgerwehr from 1903. It is a traditional corps in Cologne’s carnival. Since 2000, the Bürgerwehr has awarded the “Golden Kappes” to deserving carnivalists.
After generations with the Becker family, insolvency proceedings began on September 1, 2008. The owner terminated the 17 employees on January 30, 2009. He cited the complete cessation of business. In June 2009, the property was sold to Immendorf’sche Landgesellschaft GbR. Alexander Rolff and Philipp C. Müller managed the Früh brewery. The closure of “Em Golde Kappes” hit its former beer supplier Mühlen-Kölsch hard.
Extensive renovations followed. These included regilding the “Kappes”. On November 5, 2009, “Em Golde Kappes” reopened under Cölner Hofbräu Früh. The pub kept its rustic look. The large ground-floor dining room and two upstairs rooms offer space for 350 guests. A beer garden with about 120 seats is in front of the house.
So, raise a glass to Em Golde Kappes! This isn’t just a pub. It is a living piece of Cologne’s history. A place where tradition and Gemütlichkeit intertwine.