“Did the Virgin Mary really appear here?” I ask. That’s the legend surrounding Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa. Legend says she appeared to Bishop San Magno as a beautiful woman. Formosa means beautiful in Italian. That’s how this church got its name.
Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa boasts a rich history. It stands on the site of a 7th-century church. Tradition holds that it was one of eight founded by San Magno. The current structure though dates from 1492. Renaissance architect Mauro Codussi designed it. He kept the dimensions of the earlier church’s foundations. The building work started on June 1st that year.
The exterior is a fascinating blend of styles. The facade facing the canal is Renaissance. It was commissioned in 1542. The one facing the square is Baroque. This was completed in 1604. Both were paid for by the Cappello family. They wanted to honor Admiral Vincenzo Cappello. He’d won a great victory against the Turks. The dome has been rebuilt twice. It collapsed during an earthquake in 1688. It was hit by Austrian bombing in 1916.
Step inside. You’ll find an array of stunning artwork. Look for Palma the Elder’s Saint Barbara polyptych. It’s one of his most famous works. The Conception Chapel holds Bartolomeo Vivarini’s Madonna of Misericordia triptych. It dates from 1473. In the Oratory you can admire Giambattista Tiepolo’s Madonna with Child and St Dominic. This is an 18th-century masterpiece. Leandro Bassano’s Last Supper is also here.
Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa was important for various guilds. Fruit sellers and gunners worshipped here. The doge and twelve girls visited every February 2nd. This commemorated brides rescued from pirates. The rescue happened around 944. The casemakers guild carried out the rescue. They requested an annual visit from the doge as a reward.
The church’s campanile is another highlight. Its design dates from 1678-88. Francesco Zucconi a priest designed it. Look closely at the base. You’ll see a grotesque mascherone. People said it warded off evil spirits. John Ruskin however didn’t like it. He thought it symbolized Venice’s decline.
Chiesa di Santa Maria Formosa. A beautiful church. A captivating story. A true Venetian treasure. Don’t forget to look up at the dome as you leave. Its history is as remarkable as the art within its walls.