“Founded long ago by some devotees” echoes the words of a royal decree from 1755. Today we stand before the Capela de São Lázaro. This 18th-century Roman Catholic church holds stories of faith, healing and cultural fusion.
The Capela de São Lázaro is dedicated to both Saint Lazarus and Saint Roch. It sits on a high point in the Federação neighborhood. This location is known as Saint Lazarus Hill offering views of the Atlantic Ocean and the entrance to the Bay of All Saints.
Originally, this chapel began as a simple hermitage. It aimed to provide care for people suffering from leprosy. Later, it served a more somber purpose. The hospital next to the chapel became a quarantine station. Enslaved people arriving from Africa were held here. Imagine the mix of hope and despair that once permeated this very ground.
A deed from 1734 identifies Jorge Fernandes da Rocha and his wife Francisca Xavier as the chapel’s owners. They dedicated it to Saint Lazarus. In 1762 Rodrigo José António de Meneses, governor of Minas Gerais and Bahia, authorized a small hospital next to the chapel. By 1787, the Quinta do Tanque, formerly a Jesuit hospital, took ownership. Today it belongs to the Federal University of Bahia.
Architecturally, the Capela de São Lázaro presents a simple yet striking form. It features a single nave with an asymmetrical floor plan. Look for the single gallery added after the nave’s initial construction. A small sacristy opens into the chancel. Inside are a high altar, chancel arch and two lateral altars. Notice the bell gable on the left of the facade and the triangular pediment with an oculus. This oculus is a signature element of early colonial Jesuit churches in Brazil.
The festivals here are particularly special. They showcase a blend of religious traditions. The Festa de São Lázaro occurs on the last Sunday of January. During this festival, an image of Saint Lazarus parades through the neighborhood after mass. Followers of Candomblé gather at the chapel’s staircase and forecourt. They light candles to honor Babalú-Ayé or Omolu. Candomblé priestesses bless the community with showers of popcorn.
Then, on August 16, the Festa de São Roque e Obaluaê takes place. This celebrates Saint Roch and the Candomblé orixá Obaluaê. Both are considered protectors against infectious diseases. Saint Roch’s image journeys from the chapel to the Campo Santo Cemetery after a mass.
The Instituto do Patrimônio Artístico e Cultural da Bahia recognizes the Capela de São Lázaro as a historic structure. This designation helps protect this unique site for future generations.
As we leave the Capela de São Lázaro, remember its layered history. It is a place of healing. It is a place of sorrow. It is a place where different cultures meet. It stands as a testament to the enduring power of faith.