“Crossing his stone portico,” as Pedro Nava wrote, we stand before the Caju Cemetery. It is not just a burial ground. The Caju Cemetery is a sprawling landscape of memory in Rio de Janeiro’s North Zone. This is the largest cemetery in the state, a city of the dead covering 441,000 square meters.
Officially, the Caju Cemetery was founded on October 18, 1851. But its history stretches back further. Since 1839, this land served as Campo da Misericórdia. It was a burial ground for slaves. Imagine the countless souls laid to rest here. Victoria, a creole and daughter of a slave named Thereza, was the first in this field of mercy.
As we wander, remember that Caju Cemetery’s transformation into a public space involved acquiring neighboring properties. This greatly increased its size. The Holy House Provider José Clemente Pereira declared it ready for service in late 1851. A “free African woman” was among the first to be buried in the new cemetery.
Notice the ground beneath your feet. It is flat and dry now. Originally, the area was swampy due to Guanabara Bay. Land reclamation projects were necessary. A hill in the northern part of the necropolis was thinned to make the area suitable for burials.
Take in the sight of the high masonry wall. It surrounds the Caju Cemetery. A monumental iron railing sits on a granite base. Iron gates stand at either end. The vestibule, with its granite façades and imposing portico, was designed by engineer José Maria Jacinto Rebelo. Architect Francisco Joaquim Béthencourt da Silva modified it. He gave it greater grandeur.
Originally, the Caju Cemetery offered temporary graves for seven years. Wealthy families could purchase perpetual graves. Hence, the rich chapels dotting the landscape. At the southeast end lies the Quadra dos Acatólicos. This section was reserved for the burial of Jews and Protestants. Before the Jewish Communal Cemetery, it served this purpose. It holds ancient graves that have been studied extensively.
Nearby, the Cemitério de São Pedro is reserved for Catholics of the order of Saint Peter. The Venerable Brotherhood acquired it in 1866. In its early days, the Caju Cemetery primarily served residents of the northern region. Many imperial personalities were buried here. Interestingly, the first noble buried here was a French citizen. He was Viscount Villiers de l’Isle d’Adam.
Among the notable figures resting here are architect Antonio Jannuzzi and the Baron of Mangaratiba. You will also find the visconde do Rio Branco and Santa Casa’s benefactor, Luísa Rosa Avondano Pereira. José Clemente Pereira, a Freemason, is buried here too. Benjamin de Oliveira, Brazil’s first black clown, also rests in this ground. The journalist and songwriter Miguel Gustavo is another notable name.
One of the most striking monuments is the Mausoléu dos Mártires Integralistas. It contains the remains of those killed during the Integralist Uprising of 1938. Pedro Nava captured the essence of Caju Cemetery. He described it as a silent and formidable impact. As we leave, consider the countless stories held within these walls. The Caju Cemetery is a powerful reminder of life, death, and memory in Rio de Janeiro.