The scent of spices hangs heavy in the air. This is Bazar Victoria. A kaleidoscope of colors explodes before you.
Built in 1869 this market sits in the heart of old Victoria. A wealthy landowner Mr Michaud donated the land. Farmers sold their produce there. It’s named after Sir Selwyn Selwyn-Clarke the governor who oversaw its construction. To differentiate it from smaller markets it’s simply called “bazar an vil”.
The European Union and Seychelles shared the 4.7 million rupee renovation cost. The new building opened in 1999. It resembles a Hindu temple vibrant and colorful.
Bazar Victoria is a hub of Creole culture. You can take photos without harassment. Bargaining isn’t common. Loyalty to a particular vendor is more important than price. Regular customers get the best deals. There’s no loud haggling. Vendors raise their voices for tradition not to attract customers. Seychelles has a relaxed pace.
The Bazar reflects Seychellois produce especially fish. Under a massive mango tree that bears two delicious mango varieties or under Guinness parasols are fruit and vegetable stalls. Even chili peppers. The air-conditioned butchers’ area is at the back. About ten butchers are always ready to chat with tourists. They might sell you a Creole blood sausage. It’s expensive though. A kilogram of pork costs three kilograms of fish.
A visit isn’t complete without seeing the florist. The artisan stalls are picturesque with spice packets and mango-based sauces. The upper floor has souvenir shops and a pleasant bar-restaurant.
Saturday mornings are a spectacle. Farmers from Val d’Endor or Anse Boileau arrive. They compete with established vendors. Prices drop. It’s the only day you can buy live chickens.
The market has a fascinating history. People who bought large quantities of cassava and shark were once suspected of witchcraft. They were thought to feed these products to zombies called dodosya. The “madanm paton” fish gutters are still there. They wait for fish offal from fishmongers every morning. They’re a permanent part of the market.
Explore the surrounding Market Street. Sadly few Indian or Chinese shops remain. Past the Deevas Complex a small taxi stand awaits. Bazar Victoria is a vibrant piece of Seychelles history. Enjoy your visit.