In the heart of the Stockholm archipelago, a narrow passage whispers tales of smugglers, plagues, and naval heroes. This is Baggensstäket, a strait between Värmdö island and the Södermanland mainland. Baggensstäket connects Baggensfjärden and Lännerstasundet, leading north to Stockholm. Don’t let its tranquil beauty fool you. Baggensstäket holds a dramatic history, far exceeding its modest depth of 3 meters.
Baggensstäket, once known as Harstäket, served as the main waterway to Stockholm until the late Middle Ages. Land elevation and larger ships made the strait increasingly difficult to navigate. Intriguingly, some believe the passage was deliberately filled with rubble during conflicts, further hindering its use. Even Gustav Vasa recognized Baggensstäket’s strategic importance and ordered it cleared. This vital link to the Baltic Sea couldn’t be ignored.
Baggensstäket’s narrowest point, Knapens hål, became a notorious smuggling route. When Erik XIV imposed tolls in Vaxholm, crafty merchants transferred goods to smaller vessels to bypass the fees. This cat-and-mouse game led Karl IX to establish a toll station at Knapens hål in 1602. The station, named after customs official Olof Knaap, marked Baggensstäket’s role in trade and illicit dealings.
The strait has also witnessed moments of great ingenuity and devastating tragedy. Nicodemus Tessin the Younger, owner of the nearby Boo gård, deepened Baggensstäket in the early 18th century. He employed a workforce of “90 prisoners, over 40 dalecarlians, 12 timbermen, 24 horses and drivers”. Sadly, in 1710, a ship from Pernau, Estonia, brought the plague through Baggensstäket. The death of the ship’s captain at the Erstavikskrogen inn marked the plague’s devastating entry into Sweden.
Baggensstäket also played a crucial role in military defense. In 1719, a Russian invasion fleet attempted to reach Stockholm through the strait. They were repelled by Swedish forces in the Battle of Stäket, demonstrating Baggensstäket’s strategic value. This led to the construction of new defensive redoubts. Later proposals to widen and deepen the waterway in the 19th and early 20th centuries were rejected. One reason was the cost of further fortifications.
Baggensstäket, despite its shallow depth, has played a prominent role in Stockholm’s history. From smuggling route to military defense line, this narrow strait has witnessed pivotal moments. Its name, likely derived from the nearby Baggensfjärden, echoes the stories of naval hero Jakob Bagge. Baggensstäket’s history reminds us that even seemingly insignificant places can have a profound impact on the course of events.