“Little Fragrant Harbour”—that’s the charming original name of Aberdeen, a place etched in Hong Kong’s history. Aberdeen, nestled on the south coast of Hong Kong Island, isn’t just any suburb. It’s where British troops first landed in 1841, a pivotal moment that shaped the city we know today. Aberdeen was named after the 4th Earl of Aberdeen, a significant figure in British colonial history. But long before the British arrived, Aberdeen thrived as a fishing port. It was home to the Tanka and Hoklo people, seafaring communities with a rich culture.
Imagine Aberdeen in the past, a vibrant tapestry of fishing boats bobbing in the harbor. The Tanka and Hoklo people, distinguishable by their wide-brimmed hats, lived their entire lives on these boats. They were born, married, and even died on the water. For a long time, they were forbidden to live on land or marry land dwellers. This unique lifestyle shaped their traditions and created a distinct community within Hong Kong.
Today, most Tanka and Hoklo people live in apartments, a change driven by the desire for better education for their children. However, the harbor still holds a fleet of fishing boats, a testament to Aberdeen’s enduring connection to the sea. These boats, some small and plying the nearby waters of the South China Sea, and others, larger junks, venturing as far as the Philippines and Malaysia, represent the spirit of Aberdeen. Fishing isn’t the only industry here. Aberdeen boasts shipyards, light manufacturing, engineering works, textile factories, and warehouses, demonstrating a diverse and dynamic economy.
Aberdeen has undergone a transformation to enhance its appeal to visitors. Promenades lining the harbor have been beautified. Signage has been improved, and new facilities for boarding and disembarking boats have been added. Snack kiosks and information boards cater to the needs of tourists. The Wholesale Fish Market stands as a testament to Aberdeen’s fishing heritage. It’s a vibrant hub of activity, where you can witness the bustling trade of live seafood.
One of the most iconic experiences in Aberdeen is a sampan ride. These small boats, often operated by elderly Tanka and Hoklo women, offer a unique way to explore the harbor. You’ll weave through the colorful array of junks, sampans, trawlers, and houseboats, passing under the Ap Lei Chau Bridge. You’ll glimpse the floating restaurants, the luxury yachts moored in Aberdeen Marina, and the busy shipyards. You might even see the remnants of a lifestyle still practiced by some, with clotheslines, potted plants, and fishing nets adorning the decks of houseboats.
While the famed Jumbo Floating Restaurant, once a symbol of Aberdeen, is sadly no more, the Tai Pak Floating Restaurant is set to reopen. This offers hope for the return of this unique dining experience. Aberdeen’s story is a blend of tradition and modernity, a place where the echoes of the past resonate alongside the vibrancy of the present. It’s a place where “Little Fragrant Harbour” continues to enchant, a must-see destination for any visitor to Hong Kong.