Copper tiles shimmer in the Tokyo sun. They adorn the roof and walls of the Kyu-Iwasaki-tei Garden, also known as Akagane Goten. The Akagane Goten, or “Copper Palace”, stands as a testament to the ambition and artistry of the Meiji Era. Built for businessman and politician Iwasaki Kei, the Akagane Goten began construction in 1909 and was completed in 1912.
Iwasaki Kei, known as the “King of Forests,” spared no expense in creating his dream home. He hired the young architect, Kita Kizo, who would later design the tea room “Zuiunkaku” for the tea master, Yabunouchi Jochi. Iwasaki’s instructions to Kita were simple yet demanding: build a palace, earthquake-proof and fire-resistant, with no limitations on budget or time. Kita travelled all the way to Kyoto to study temples and palaces for inspiration, ensuring the Akagane Goten would be a masterpiece.
The Akagane Goten’s resilience is remarkable. It survived both the Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and the air raids of World War II, remaining largely intact to this day. After Iwasaki’s death, the Akagane Goten was owned by oil magnate Nakano Eichi before passing to the Okura family, founders of the Hotel Okura Tokyo. Now, the Akagane Goten is managed by the Okura Museum of Art.
While not always open to the public, special viewing sessions provide a glimpse into this architectural gem. Imagine yourself stepping through the impressive four-legged gate. This gate, completed in 1913, features massive pillars of Kiso hinoki cypress. Its design echoes the gate of Daioji Temple. The thick, single-piece kusunoki camphorwood doors are a testament to meticulous craftsmanship. Notice how they show no signs of warping, a feat achieved through careful drying and precise joinery.
Entering the Akagane Goten feels like stepping back in time. The garden, once Iwasaki’s private sanctuary, is a peaceful oasis amidst the bustling city. Admire the thoughtful design, with strategically placed trees and a lowered ground level to enhance the view from the main house. Inside, marvel at the intricate details: the coffered ceilings, the patterned walls, and the carefully chosen woods. From the aromatic kuwa wood to the sturdy Zelkova tree, every element speaks of quality and refinement.
The parlor, a blend of Japanese and Western styles, embodies the spirit of the era. Kita Kizo incorporated elements from the tea room “Zuien” in Kyoto, creating a modern yet traditional space. As you explore further, notice the unique touches: the “entasis” pillars, inspired by ancient Greek architecture, and the flower-shaped tokonoma alcove. Even the seemingly simple latticework and sliding doors hold hidden meanings and stories.
The Akagane Goten is more than just a building; it’s a living story. It tells of a time of rapid modernization and a deep appreciation for tradition. It whispers of a forest king’s dream and an architect’s dedication. It stands as a reminder that beauty and resilience can coexist, even in the heart of a bustling metropolis.