Sword cuts scar the pillars. They are remnants of a tumultuous past. This is Tōzen-ji a Buddhist temple in Tokyo. It stands silently bearing witness to history.
Tōzen-ji is a Rinzai school temple. It is one of Edo’s four great Zen temples. Originally established in 1610 in Akasaka it was moved to its current location in 1636. Back then it sat directly on Edo Bay earning the nickname Kaijō Zenrin the Zen forest above the sea. It served as a bodaiji for numerous daimyō clans including the Date and Ikeda clans.
The temple’s pivotal role in history began in 1859. It became the site of the first British legation in Japan. This was during the Bakumatsu period. Rutherford Alcock the British Consul-General chose Tōzen-ji. He believed it was suitably sized and prestigious. Japanese authorities however preferred Yokohama. They warned Alcock of the potential for attacks. His location was at the entrance to the Tōkaidō Japan’s busiest highway. It was extremely vulnerable. Alcock disregarded their warnings.
The first Tōzen-ji incident unfolded in 1860. Kobayashi Denkichi Alcock’s interpreter was murdered. This was a prelude to more violence. The main attack occurred on July 5 1861. Extremist rōnin formerly of Mito Domain attacked. They were led by Ariga Hanya. Japanese sentries fought back fiercely. Three attackers died. Two defenders were killed ten wounded. Among the injured were George Morrison and Laurence Oliphant. Alcock fired his revolver. The surviving attackers were punished. Some were executed others committed seppuku. Alcock demanded a British garrison increased guards and compensation. The shogunate conceded.
The second incident occurred in 1862. Lieutenant Colonel Edward St John Neale was the Chargé d’affaires. He moved the legation back to Tōzen-ji. Itō Gunbei a guard attempted to assassinate Neale. He killed two Royal Marines before being subdued. He then committed seppuku. The British permanently relocated to Yokohama.
Tōzen-ji’s grounds are a National Historic Site. The temple itself is still active. Yet the sword cuts and bullet marks on its pillars remain. They serve as poignant reminders of a turbulent era in Japanese history. A silent testament to the clashes between East and West. The legacy of Tōzen-ji continues to resonate. It is a place where history and serenity coexist.