Three weathered faces stare down from the Koshinzuka. They are carved into the stone. They represent the Sanshi the three corpses within each of us.
This is the Koshinzuka a wayside shrine in Suginami. It stands as a silent testament to a unique aspect of Japanese folk religion Koshin. Built in 1716 by ten villagers it was originally faced towards the south. The Great Kanto Earthquake of 1923 shifted its orientation to the west. World War II brought further damage. A fire destroyed a section of the shrine. It was repaired in 1962. The Koshinzuka still stands today a local landmark.
Koshin is a belief rooted in Taoism. It holds that each person harbors three evil spirits Sanshi. Every 60 days these spirits leave the body. They ascend to the heavens. They report our deeds to the god Tentei. Tentei then decides our fate. Good deeds bring good fortune. Bad deeds bring misfortune or even death.
To avoid this fate many people observed Koshin nights. They stayed awake all night. They celebrated with food and drink. They hoped to prevent the Sanshi from leaving. This practice was common among aristocrats. They spent their sleepless nights with poetry music and games. Over time Koshin became intertwined with Shinto and Buddhism. Deities were associated with it. One popular deity was Shomen Kongo. He was seen as a protector against the Sanshi.
The Koshinzuka you see before you represents this centuries-old tradition. It quietly overlooks the neighborhood. It continues to inspire faith and reflection. The three faces carved in stone remind us of the inner struggles we all face. They serve as a visual reminder to live a good life. To work towards enlightenment and harmony.
Today Koshin is less prevalent than in the past. This shrine nevertheless endures. It remains a reminder of this ancient practice. It is a quiet space for contemplation. It provides solace and a connection to Japan’s rich and nuanced spiritual past. The Koshinzuka stands as a symbol of our enduring connection to the past.