常護寺

Tucked away in Tokyo’s Arakawa ward is Jōkan-ji, a temple with a story as compelling as its architecture. Jōkan-ji isn’t your typical serene temple. It carries a unique history, a history intertwined with the lives of the women of the Yoshiwara pleasure district. Established in 1655, Jōkan-ji became a final resting place for many of these women, most of whom died impoverished. Their bodies, wrapped in simple hay mats, were often brought to the temple’s back entrance. This practice, along with a mass burial after the 1855 Ansei earthquake, led to the nickname “Nage-komi-dera,” meaning “Throw-away Temple.” However, this label is a simplification of a more complex story. While the name “Throw-away Temple” might conjure images of disregard, the reality at Jōkan-ji is more nuanced. The temple provided a burial ground for those who were often ostracized in life. It became a place of remembrance for the women of Yoshiwara, whose lives and stories might have otherwise been forgotten. Jōkan-ji stands not as a symbol of rejection, but as a testament to the lives and hardships of these women, a place where their spirits could finally find rest. A visit to Jōkan-ji is a journey into a hidden corner of Tokyo’s history, a poignant reminder of the lives lived on the margins of society. The temple’s serenity today belies its poignant past, offering a space for reflection and remembrance in the heart of a bustling city.